TR4/4A TR4 Alternator

[TRDejaVu]

So my original project to go narrow belt, but retain the generator morphed into doing the alternator conversion as well. I sourced a 7127-3 unit from NAPA along with a conversion kit from Triumph Rescue.

The kit uses a 3/8 diameter bolt (same as the VTR write up), but when you remove the generator front mounting boss it leaves a 1/2 hole in the engine front plate. I know that it will pull up tight when bolted in, but with the load being applied to the pulley at the front it seems to me that the alternator will work inwards, go out of line and have extra load put on its bearings. I have MacGyvered the hole so that a 3/8 hole is present to keep the alignment, but the long bolt won't clear the body crossbrace. So my 2 questions are:

1. Has anyone got any long term usage time with this mod; if so any issues due to the bolt hole mis-match?

2. The VTR write up says to cut 1/2 inch off the alternator mounting boss. Has that been your experience as well?


Also, I sourced a 7385 belt, but I can't get it over the 3 pulleys so it's back to NAPA for a longer one on Sat.

 

[TR4nut]

Ian-

To handle the bolt issue long term, I bought a small bushing from McMaster Carr. Low cost item, and it made sure everything snugged up - you could always retrofit that way if you wish.

Yes, I took off some from the mounting boss - but I wouldn't go with their measurement, just dry fit and see how far out the alternator is from the other pulleys and take off that difference.

Randy

 

[martx-5]

I put a 7127 Delco alternator on my TR3, but didn't do it with any kit, as I work for an electrical remanufacturer and can come by these alternators very cheap.

That means I had to make up my own brackets/spacers. I tried the long bolt deal with spacers, but didn't like how it was set up. I finally made a spacer that was threaded at each end to accept a bolt from each direction. One going through the alternator, through the front of the bracket, and then threading into the spacer. From the back, a bolt going through the bracket, then threading into the spacer.

I did not have to take any material from the mounting boss of the alternator. The belt lined up perfectly when I mounted the alternator. Also, I too got one set for the three o'clock position, but once on the car, I realized that the twelve o'clock position was better. You can change it yourself, but there are some cautions when doing it. If you want to change the clock position, let me know, and I will walk you through it...or you can exchange it for one at twelve o'clock.

I do have the NAPA 7385 belt on there. If you need a longer one, the diameter of your pulley must be larger then mine.

EDIT: I also made up a spacer for the adjustable bracket where it mounts onto the water pump so it would line up correctly with the front of the ear on the alternator. It's about 5/8" long, maybe 3/4". I'll measure it you you want to know the exact dimension.

 

[TR4nut]

Actually, I think I stole most of Art's work, but with McMasterCarr items. I bought a reducing coupling, the smaller bolt attached to the rear mount then the coupling. Bought threaded rod, fit it to the other end of the coupling to attach the alternator. Used a bush for that rod to get rid of the play on the engine plate mount. Also was able to fabricate a simple connected to tie to the rear of the alternator and the threaded rod. Made everything very secure.

 

[TRDejaVu]

Randy, I sent you a PM.