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Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3B Panel Light Switch

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psutr3

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Panel light switch does not work. Thinking of wiring panel lights directly into headlight/parking light switch or just into that line in front of the line fuse. Any problem with that? Problem is that with heater in place there seems to be no way to get to wires. I’m guessing that 16 years ago when I finished the restoration I must installed heater and then dash and then installed and wired gauges and switches into instrument panel and then installed that panel into dash. Looking at it now I’m not sure how I would have been able to tighten upper wing nuts. Are there any shortcuts that would avoid having to remove heater which does not look like a really fun venture.
 
Worst case, you can access by removing the speedo and glove box to get to the top nuts. I don't have any trouble even without removing those items, though.
 
Thanks. Top right wing nut seems hardest to get to. Removing glove box has to be better than removing heater.
 
Actually they tried fitting them in the boot, but that didn't work too well...just kidding. See attached photo.
i-gDbFzXR-XL.jpg
 
I almost have heater out and it has been a royal pain. In the 16 or 17 years since I got the car on the road I don’t remember ever using it. Had a TR3A in ‘60s and the heater didn’t make much of a difference. When it is out I’m not going to reinstall it. At least I’ll have room to work behind dash
Gary
 
Great pic Keith, where did you get that? I would say 1958 because door handles and the older trunk brace. Maybe they are the chrome guys the little toilet bowl deals are on and so are the snaps and stone guards. The one guy looks like he is choking the pull vent. I understand.
steve
 
Steve, it's a photo from the 1958 TSOA European Rallye Trip. One of their last stops was the S-T factory to "turn in" their cars and tour the assembly line. Some of the other photos can be found at:

http://tr4a.weebly.com/inside-the-triumph-factory-tr3.html

It's also interesting to note they're all (with one visible exception) red-bodied cars, with various colored interiors. Sort of a "holding area" for the bodies, before they go onto the actual assembly line to be married to frames, motors, etc.

The near worker is probably chuckling to himself that he doesn't have to struggle with assembling the scuttle vent, the other poor sod does!
 
On the heater I got a new core which is shorter than the original smiths one so you have a little more room to work in there and it does put out good heat.

David
Heater installed.jpg
 
I’ve been able to get at those wing nuts with everything in place around dash. You might find it easier to work in there if you remove one or both seats. Cheers, Mike
 
When I take a heater out, I leave the driver side brace in so brace holds all the weight on the left. Then take special notice of temp gauge lead and gently pull it out of the way with some very flexible wire tie, then take the right dash brace out. Remove the choke and glove box and then get the heater brace nut off from inside the engine compartment. Drop the heater to the right side and unhook the hoses and you should have it.
steve
 
Hey Mike is your blue tr3 a 1956? If so, does your hood have the fold in the back and how many vents in the hood?
Thanks steve
 
Steve it has two vents ... here is a picture that might show what you want to know. Cheers, Mike

Hood.jpg
 
Thanks nice car, I cannot really see from the pics; it looks like the back of the hood does not have a fold at the rear edge.
 
Thanks. Not sure what the fold at the rear edge means. Car is in storage and not really accessible. There is a fold over of the metal along the back edge of 1/4 to 3/8 inch is that what you mean? Now you have raised my curiosity. Cheers, Mike
 
Not sure I want to reinstall the heater. Also not sure the valve on the head completely shuts off flow of water to heater. How and where should I cap off the inflow and outflow lines. Anyone done this or have ideas of how to do it?
Gary
 
I removed both the heater valve and the tube out of the thermostat housing and replaced them with brass plugs. That is the most permanent solution. A less permanent would be to use short lengths of hose with plugs in the ends just to block the open tubing until you decide to replace your heater.
 
After the removal of the old original heater and before installing the T7Design heater, I did a variation on this leaving the hoses intact and connecting them together under the dash with a short "barbed" connector and hose clamps.
 
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