TR2/3/3A TR3B Handbrake Cable Replacement

[af3683]

I would appreciate any tips that anyone has regarding replacing my TR3B handbrake cable. Upon examining the car today and looking in my manual it looks like you remove the existing cable by removing the cotter pin and clevis pin at the rear of the assembly, release the spring securing the cable to the gearbox tunnel, remove the 2 bolts from the 2 cable securing brackets, and then turn the threaded end in front to remove it from the handbrake.

However, when you install the replacement cable does it make any difference which end you start at? It seems like it might be easier to start by turning the threaded end into the handbrake assembly and work your way back. Also, how do you get the replacement cable and sheath to fit through the small opening of the rear bracket? Are you supposed to pry the bracket open a bit? Thank you.

Art

 

[CJD]

Hey Art,

These are some pics of my 3A...I don't know if the B is entirely the same. On mine the the sheath does not pass through the small opening of the bracket...just the cable does. It may take a little opening with a screw driver. I don't see that it would matter which end goes together first...

John

 

[TR3driver]

On mine the the sheath does not pass through the small opening of the bracket...just the cable does.

Just to expand a bit on that, the sheath side of the bracket has a hole that the end of the sheath fits into. You'll need to start by pulling the sheath out of that hole. Of course you need to remove the bolt first, and probably pry the bracket open just a bit. Then the inner part of the cable should pull down through the slot.

Installation is the reverse. You might want to clean and inspect the bracket while you're at it; I've had several of them crack and break.

 

[sp53]

nice pictures John

 

[af3683]

Thanks to all for your help. However. I'm still trying to remove the old handbrake cable and would appreciate further assistance.

1) What is the proper way to remove the threaded end of the old cable from the fork end of the handbrake assembly. I've loosened the jam nut. Do you use a pliers or wrench on the top of the threaded piece where there appears to be a "squared" section? Also, do you remove this section last because if I could turn it the entire cable is going to want to turn??

2 I removed the bolt from the rear securing bracket but am still trying to remove the old cable from the bracket. I know the cable is in the round part of the slot. I've pryed the bottom open a bit but probably not enough. I don't to pry it open too much because I'm not sure how I'm going to close the gap. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,
Art

 

[TexasKnucklehead]

What is the proper way to remove the threaded end of the old cable from the fork end of the handbrake assembly. I've loosened the jam nut. Do you use a pliers or wrench on the top of the threaded piece where there appears to be a "squared" section? Also, do you remove this section last because if I could turn it the entire cable is going to want to turn??

If I understand you correctly, I think you need to also remove the clevis pin. That way, with the jam nut loose, the fork end can be rotated (and removed), without the cable turning.

I removed the bolt from the rear securing bracket but am still trying to remove the old cable from the bracket. I know the cable is in the round part of the slot. I've pryed the bottom open a bit but probably not enough. I don't to pry it open too much because I'm not sure how I'm going to close the gap.

Once all tension is removed from the cable, the sheath can be moved away from the bracket. Once clear, the cable should drop out of the narrow slot. The bolt will close the gap tightly against the sheath when reinstalled.

 

[af3683]

Thank you. The threaded (male) end piece screws into the fork (female) end which which is held on to the handbrake assembly by the clevis pin. I did back the jam nut away from the female end of fork end but did not yet remove the clevis pin. I agree that if I remove the clevis pin I will remove the tension and it will be easier to work on. I currently have the bolt removed from the middle bracket and the bolt removed from the rear bracket. However, as I explained, I can't pull the cable down throught the slot in the rear (probably because I need to pry the slot open a bit more) and I have not yet remove the clevis pin in the front. So the cable is still under some. The slot in the rear bracket is not real easy to pry open and it doesn't seem like it will want to close later when I insert and tighten the bolt. Tomorrow I'll try to pry it open a bit more and remove that clevis pin in front. Thanks again.

Art

 

[TR3driver]

What he said. Pliers or vice grips should be fine on the unthreaded portion of the cable end.

You shouldn't have to spread the gap by very much. ISTR I found a thin screwdriver and used it to tap the sheath out of the bracket. Mine was bonded more by rust than the bracket pinching it.

 

[af3683]

I've sprayed the rear bracket with some PB Blaster and can wiggle it but doesn'r want to come out of the round hole that it is in and down throught the slot. I believe that it is the original cable and the sheath seems to be metal and not rubber like my new one. Also, I assume that the unthreated portion of the cable end is how you tighten the new cable once it is installed and then tighten the jam nut so it doesn't move. If that is the case, I would assume that I could also loosen it without removing the clevis pin, but I'm sure there is still some rust on the threads with is preventing me from turning it. Thank you.

Art

 

[CJD]

You will definitely have to remove the cotter key and pin from the front fork and remove the fork from the handbrake lever. The cable cannot spin enough to unscrew otherwise. If yours is like mine was, the threads will be caked with crud and will not want to come out of the fork. You do not have to remove the fork from the cable until you get the whole assembly out of the car. Then you will be able to work on it standing up instead of on your back.

Just to reiterate what Randall said, to get the cable out of the brackets, pull the sheath straight back out of the bracket. With the sheath free, you pull down on the sheath and the cable should pop out. If you are replacing the cable/sheath anyway...you can be rough on it. It is probably also caked with grease and will take some chipping and coaxing to get it out. You may have to clean out the crud from the bracket slot to get the cable free.

If you disconnect the rear fork first (by removing the cotter key and pin), it will make sure you have no tension in the cable while you work. Good luck!

John

 

[af3683]

Thank you very much for your help. That will be my project this weekend.

Art

 

[af3683]

I'm installing my new handbrake cable. It seems that the jam nut from my old cable will only screw on the new Moss Motors cable about 1/4 inch which is about the thickness of the nut. I can screw the jam nut on the old cable with no problem at all, so it appears that the threads are OK. Could it be that the threads on the new cable are slightly different? Is there anything special about these jam nuts besides the fact that they are narrow that I couldn't find one at my local hardware store? I assume maybe I should get a brass one. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.

Art

 

[CJD]

Well, it doesn't surprise me you are having an issue with a replacement part. Many of these repro parts are a real effort to install. Anyway...

Is there a chance the new threads are metric? If they are, then you will have to match the fork and nut to the metric threads. If you don't think they are metric, then my first inclination would be to clean the threads of the nut and cable threads with a tap and die respectively. Does the fork screw on easily?

I guess you got the old cable out alright?

John

 

[af3683]

The old came out with a little work. The new cable screws into the front fork fairly easily.