TR2/3/3A TR3A windscreen

[tmc]

Can someone point me to instructions, tips, pointers, etc. for assembling a TR3A windscreen? I have my re-chromed parts back, new glass, new seals, new screws, etc. Time to put it back together again.

 

[tinman58]

Lots of paitiance! use soapy water to slide the rubber in the bottom and top tracks. I am sure some one else will chime in on more input. It is not as bad as you think.

 

[Tugboat]

My knee-jerk reaction was, "what a hateful job," but Tinman is right, it just takes patience. I did it a year ago. The soap is helpful. I found that the judicious use of wood clamps was helpful in getting the soapy mess into the newly re-chromed pieces. Be careful with the screws in the stanchions as they are different lengths and you want to be sure you are putting the long ones in the right places (and thus not cracking the windshield). The job can be a pain but the finished product looks really slick when you are done. Good luck.

 

[Geo Hahn]

...use soapy water to slide the rubber in the bottom and top tracks...

If you stretch the rubber as you pull it you may find that helps (makes it a bit thinner) then let it all relax for a few days before you do final trimming.

 

[tmc]

Thanks for the tips. I was on the right page; now all I have to do is get with it!

 

[tmc]

OK. I laid out all the parts to my windscreen. I can see how I would do the rubber piece on top of the frame and on the bottom --------slides into a long groove. But how do I "wrestle" the glazing strip, wrapped around the top edge of the windscreen glass, into the top "half" of the frame. I see how it goes in there, but how do I physically accomplish that? I feel like I need four or more hands. Do I wrap the glazing strip around the top edge of the glass, glue it into place there, then use soapy water to help cram it into the frame? Trim excess with a razor blade, then clean up any glue residue with acetone?

 

[martx-5]

The glazing strips available for use around the glass in the TR3 are generally too thick and stiff. It can be a real fight to get it in there. I got a killer price on a slightly thinner windscreen that Moss had available several years ago, so I was able to use the available glazing strip, but it was still tough.

Here's another solution (electrical tape) that Don Elliott has used with good results.

 

[DougF]

When installing mine, I had the same problem as everyone else. I ended up reusing what was in there, which resembled friction tape.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Like Don and Art I used electrical tape and trimmed off the excess once it was in the frame. Biggest thing to me is make sure you have the correct length screws when putting frame back together, I have cracked the WS with a s crew that was to long. If any doubt put the frame together w/o the glass and look at the braces with the screws in. If they stick out of the brace, they need to be shortened.

Marv

 

[PKPoole]

I broke the glass on the first attempt trying to use the rubber glazing sold for the TR3. I remembered that the MGA glazing (Moss) was thinner so ordered it and worked like a champ. Good luck. Pat

_________________________
'62 TR3A (frame off resto)
'58 MGA (frame off resto)
'60 TR3A (frame off rest in progress)

 

[PeterK]

Hockey stick tape is like friction tape but much thinner and less tacky. Might be worth a try as well.

 

[tmc]

All good hints and suggestions.............also noted one on Don Elliott's posting replies regarding black butyl rubber caulking. Good reminder on the length of the screws on the sides. I'm inspired to get to work!

 

[tmc]

I decided to try the black caulking approach mentioned in a reply to Don Elliott's post about windscreen assembly. I used black silicone caulk.....really messy job. Once I get all the excess cleaned off, it may look pretty good.......and it appears to have sealed the glass in very well. One irritating aspect.....the small screws Moss supplies to screw the lower corner braces in with have heads that are too large for the channels through the window frame......so they have to be ground down before screwing them in.

 

[Arrow]

I am about to under take the windscreen restoration. Can any one direct me on re-chroming? How about the snaps? I believe new snaps are not available? Do you take them out and re-chrome? What does chroming do the the holes/threads where they go back in?

 

[TR3driver]

Pegs are available from TRF, under PN 553827 (unless you have an early TR2 with the "baby" Tenax fasteners, or an aluminum windscreen surround). But at $3.10 each, you might want to reuse your old ones if they are presentable.

Chroming will make the holes undersize and male threads oversize. I'll let others comment on the best way around that.

 

[tmc]

I am about to under take the windscreen restoration. Can any one direct me on re-chroming? How about the snaps? I believe new snaps are not available? Do you take them out and re-chrome? What does chroming do the the holes/threads where they go back in?

I took my windscreen frame parts to a rechromer in Denver (I live 45 minutes away) It was $280 for the four parts. They look fantastic now. I bought new pegs/snaps from VBC. The threads on the rechromed parts were a bit tight, so I re-tapped them before installing the pegs. I put the pegs in first, then did the dirty deed of installing the windscreen glass in the frame. I did the bottom rubber seal after assembling the whole thing. I plan to put the top seal on after I have the completed windscreen on the car. It's hard to get any leverage on the the thing sitting on one's work bench! So far, so good.

 

[TR3TomG]

I sent my windscreen parts to Atlas Plating in Texas and they did a nice job, for as I recall about $400. I used the Moss seals and it was difficult to get them between the glass and frame, but it was do-able with patience. Same with the rubber that goes along the top - it just takes time and patience. I seem to recall that I used some type of lubricant such as liquid soap. The cornor brackets were pretty difficult to make work and to get the screws in, but same deal, time and patience. Finally, as for the top snaps/fastiners, I purchased new ones I think from Moss, but had heard that because they are longer than the originals, they can crack the glass when fully inserted. Thus, I grinded them a bit to be as long as the ones that I removed. As for the holes they went in being too small due to chroming, I recall that when I grinded the fastners, I also tapered them a bit so they would fit. I was careful not to force them so as not to mess up the chrome or break them. Note too that the screws that attach the stanchions - assuming they are replacements - need to be carefully inspected to insure they are not too long as they too I understand can crack the glass once inserted.

I guess the bottom line for me was to take my time and spread everything out in one place to understand what had to be done. Then, I took a couple of days to do the project so as not to get frustrated and make a mistake. I also drank beer along the way.

 

[BillyB62]

I bet it was the beer that made the task bearable!

 

[TR3TomG]

I should also mention that with respect to the rubber on the bottom of the windscreen that goes against the car, be sure that when you insert it to the metal at the bottom of the windscreen that you have the lip curl back toward the inside of the windscreen (ie., curling toward the back of the car). I know it may not seem right now, but once you put the completed windscreen on the car, it will make sense. That is, the pressure on the seal when you pull it forward to put it on the car will make a complete seal. Do it the other way, and there may be gaps.

Re some of the earlier questions, yes, I wrapped the rubber seal/glazing around the glass - kind of like a "U" shape - and then trimmed it with a razor blade. I did not use glue.

I really did not want to do this project, but considering that I spent so much time and effort on the rest of the car to make it look good, I thought it was a big compromise not to do it. Also, I dont know how other feel about this, but Ive found that the best time for me to do this kind of difficult (or mind numbing) stuff is while I am still knee deep and interested in the overall project. If I leave it until later, it probaly wont get done as Ill lose interest and have moved onto someting else. In the meantime, it will bug the heck out of me that its not done and that I didnt do it when I could have.