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TR2/3/3A TR3A Steering Wheels and Columns

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MGTF1250Dave

MGTF1250Dave

Jedi Knight
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Aloha All,

I have a TR3A with the adjustable steering wheel and column. The cam ("worm") has a few deep nicks on it. I have a rigid column with a good cam and also a non adjustable steering wheel in good condition. I am thinking about converting to the rigid steering wheel. Does any one have advice on doing this?

I have a few questions regarding the difference between the two columns. The adjustable steering column has a conduit running the length of it and extends outside the front of the steering box for the control head wiring. Does the rigid column use a conduit? The rigid column seems to have a fixed length of tubing for wiring to extend out of the box, is this the case? Is the outer tubing of the steering column the same for both types of steering wheels?

You're help and comments will be gratefully appreciated.
 
Dave; That should be an easy switch, you are speaking of the stator tube that runs from the steering wheel to the bottom of the steering box (horn and turn signal wiring). I am not sure about an adjustable wheel and a non adjustable as far as the stator tube is concearned.
 
Both the rigid and split, whether adjustable or not, have the conduit for the wiring. I don't know if there is a difference in lenght between the adjustable and non, but I have a rigid, non-adjustable wiring conduit tube sitting here that measures 61".

Edit: I see that Geo has posted that there is a differnece in the adjustable, non-adjustable stator tubes. I would venture that the adjustable is longer, as it starts off closer to the driver then the non-adjustable, and adjusts even closer still. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif You may be able to just cut down the adjustable tube. For a 6'2" guy like me, a totally useless option.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
Does the rigid column use a conduit?
Click to expand...
As noted, it does. The "conduit" does more than hold the wires, it also keep the control head from turning with the steering wheel, so the turn signal lever is always on top.
MGTF1250Dave said:
Is the outer tubing of the steering column the same for both types of steering wheels?
Click to expand...
Yes.
 
Also on a TR3A...
I have the split column. When I pull the steering box next month, can I just loosen the link and pull the lower portion leaving the wheel in place?
Dave
 
It can be done. You'll need to remove the control head and stator tube; then I pulled the wheel out some to disengage the link.

You can even skip removing the front apron, but you'll have to disconnect a motor mount and jack the motor up some to get the column out of it's bracket on the suspension tower. Lots easier than removing the apron, IMO.
 
The rigid steering column I have appears to have a stator tube in it. Does it matter which end I try to remove from. On the adjustable type, I've always pulled it out from the steering wheel end.

The car I'm considering do this with is currently a rolling chassis with the engine & drive train on it.

I am trying to determine if the conversion would be easier than removing the worm and reinstalling on the other column.
 
One consideration may be which column you prefer.

It has been many years since I had my first TR3A which had the adjustable column, but as I recall the non-adjustable wheel sits farther forward than the adjustable in its full-forward position.

Since most find that the range of adjustment offered was from 'too close' to 'much too close' many prefer the location of the non-adjustable wheel.
 
MGTF1250Dave said:
The rigid steering column I have appears to have a stator tube in it. Does it matter which end I try to remove from. On the adjustable type, I've always pulled it out from the steering wheel end.
Click to expand...
There are supposed to be "anti-rattle" springs on the tube, which will not fit through the opening in the steering box front plate. ISTR they won't fit through the worm gear itself either, but I could be mistaken on that point.
MGTF1250Dave said:
I am trying to determine if the conversion would be easier than removing the worm and reinstalling on the other column.
Click to expand...
I've never had the nerve to try a R&R of the worm. The end of the shaft is peened over to hold the worm in place on it, and I'm not confidant I can peel it back, change the worm, and re-peen it without weakening the metal.

And I've learned the hard way that the steering column needs to be strong in tension ... it's no fun at all having it come apart while on the road ! Fortunately I'd completed the turn when I happened to pull on the wheel a bit, and was only doing 20 mph, so got it stopped before hitting anything ... but I did need a change of undies afterward !
 
Aloha All,

Thanks for the all the answers, suggestions and items to consider. As Geo mentioned, the range of adjustment is limited to "close" through "too close". I think I'll do a little experimentation this weekend to remove the stator tube on the rigid column.

Conversion to a rigid column is the direction I'm tending toward. I don't want to chance have an experience like Randall.
 
Aloha Dave, I think what you will find out is that the back piece (that detaches) on the control head where it goes into the stator tube is different on an adjustable wheel. It is really not a big problem if you have an extra control head from a ridged or split wheel. The piece I am referring to is longer on the adjustable wheel and slides into the stator tube differently.

Sp53
 
That's right, the stub on the back is the only difference in the control heads.

But I don't see any reason the 'adjustable' stub & stator tube could not be used with a 'fixed' steering wheel; if that's what you have on hand.

The stator tube, stub and control head all stay the same between solid and split columns.
 
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