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TR2/3/3A TR3A Rear Brake Opinions

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M_Pied_Lourd

M_Pied_Lourd

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Hi All,

At some point in the near future, I need to make a decision on what rear brakes to use on my Post 60000 TR3A restoration.

Currently, I have 2 post 60000 3's in the garage. One has been "upgraded" with the older 10 " rear brake drums while the other has the stock 9 " drums.

While reading Piggott's "Original Triumph", I seem to recall that he states that there were issues with the 10" rear brakes locking up and that the eventual move to the 9 " rear brakes helped to solve some of this problem.

So my question is this. Do I keep the 10 inch drums that are on the car now, or do I replace them with the 9 inch that I have from the parts car?

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
As you noted, the older TRs had 10" rear brakes. My 1958 TR3A (TS 27489 LO) has these 10" drums. They were turned inside at 80,250 miles from new and have worked fine for the next 100,000 miles from 1990 till now. They are still "true".

I believe the 9" rear brakes were adopted because the 10" brakes are more than what is needed once S-T started to install disk brakes on the TR3. The switch to 9" may also have been availability and cost as many other cars were using the 9" brakes. I would go with the 9" brakes as they were also used right up to the TR6, so parts and prices would be better. And they would be just like those on your TR6. Also if you ever sell the TR, you could tell the new owner that it has the correct 9" brakes.

I re-lined the 10" shoes at a brake/clutch shop in 1990 but 9" shoes are available off the shelf from most parts suppliers.

Offer the 10" set on e-bay or other to someone with an earlier TR where the owner is really looking for original replacements.

On the other hand if the 9" brakes and rear axle come from your parts car, I'd be concerned about any side impact damage to all these parts, brakes, bearings, half-shafts, etc. that the rear axle and differential may have suffered.
 
Almost a mute point! I recall many years ago when I owned my first TR, a new 67 4A, I was running with NO rear brakes for several weeks and never realized. I do not recommend this, but the front brakes do most of the work!
 
Andrew Mace said:
I'm with Don; go with the 9" for ready availability of shoes and adjusters (if needed, etc., as well as likely better-balanced braking.
Click to expand...
I'll third that opinion, even though TS39781LO had been retrofitted with the later 9" brakes and IMO needed more braking in the rear.

Note that the housing, axles, etc. are the same, it's only the brake components themselves (backing plate, drum, etc.) that changed. Even the cylinders will interchange (which is another source of front/rear brake tuning).
 
I'd wondered about the cylinders themselves; that's good to know. I know that the adjusters are different, and I think the adjusters for the 10" brakes are almost as difficult to find as "new" 10" shoes. The adjusters for the 9" brakes are quite common, not only to later 3A/4/6 but also to the whole Herald/Spitfire line.
 
I have a set of early 10" (TR2-3) new relined shoes if anybody is interested. Also listed to fit the front of the TR2. PM me a resonable offer and you'll get a bargain.
 
Thanks Guys,

Will go with the 9's after a close inspection. At this point, I don't plan on using the axle/diff and will keep my orginal 411 and A Type and just swap out the brake components.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Andrew Mace said:
I think the adjusters for the 10" brakes are almost as difficult to find as "new" 10" shoes.
Click to expand...
FWIW, Moss has them listed; for almost $200 each (ouch!).
 
No argument from me; but at least they are only 24K gold plated, not solid unobtanium.
 
My 58 has 10" rear drums I think if I had a choice I would go with the 9". I have had them lock up on hard braking, I have reajusted and they were a little better.
 
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