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TR2/3/3A TR3A rack and pinion conversion-yes or no

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bluemiata90

bluemiata90

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I'm at a crossroads with my TR3 restoration. The body has been removed and the frame has been reconditioned. I removed every front suspension part and reconditioned all the metal and bought a complete suspension rebuild kit(bushings,grommets,upper ball joints,trunnions etc.) I even bought a spring loaded adjusting screw from England, that they state takes most of the play out of the steering. My problem is, while I have the body already off and I'm redoing the front end anyways, I've been considering converting to a bolt on rack and pinion steering system. I know where I can purchase the kit, but it's not cheap and I am on a tight budget with this restoration. Has anyone out there done this conversion and is it really that much better then a complete front end rebuild. This car will be a weekend driver with some short weekend overnights during the summer. I'm really at a standstill with my restoration, until I decide, should I go with the conversion or not. All feedback and opinions will be greatly appreciated. thanks /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
From everything I have read, it transforms the steering on the TR3. I haven't driven one so equipped, but decided to do the conversion during my resto.

Besides the basic kit, if your TR3 has the one piece steering column, you will have to get the upper section from the split steering column and firewall bracket that holds the upper column. In the kit you also get an electric fan, as the position of the rack does not allow the original crank driven fan to be used. Other issues include the directional switch that has to be relocated due to not being able to route all wires down the shaft. I'm working on some sort of mod to allow the original to be used. Then, since the steering effort will be so much less, you'll probably want to install a 14" wheel. The basic kit cost now starts climbing, especially if you have to source out that upper column.

It's something that can be added later, but the nose of the car has to come off, so it is best to do the job when the body's off. With the body off, it took me about 40 minutes to install the rack, and that included swapping the tie rod spindle links.
 
Martx-5, I'm assuming you haven't finished the car yet. It sounds like a easy conversion with the body off. I've found a kit for $1100.00 plus shipping. Is that in the price range?. I also have a split steering column, so that wouldn't be a problem. Let me know when you first drive it, what you think. Thanks for the input. Anyone else out there have any opinions on keeping the rebuilt original or go to a R$P conversion.
 
I did the rack and pinion conversion about 4 years ago. As far as driving goes it makes all the difference in the world. It’s very precise and easy to steer.
The downside is the electrical wiring that was run through the steering hub. There is a way to rout the original control head through the upper half of the shaft and bring the wires out through the U joint. I tried this with the horn only and kept tangling the wires around the column. I finally gave up on it and installed a horn button in the dash. I never tried it with the turn signals but the problems would be the same. I installed a MGA turn signal switch in the overdrive switch hole in the dash. This switch operates as a timer for the turn signals and is somewhat adjustable for time. You can turn it off early if you remember. I also installed a 14” wood steering wheel which really looks great in the car.
I drive the car almost every day and have never had a problem with the conversion. Had the wheels aligned after the install and never touched it sense. If the car was mostly going to sit in a garage I’m not sure I would have changed it.
I did save all the original parts in case I sell the car and the new owner wants to change it back. However after 4 years I’ve decided its going to die with me so I guess I could sell the old parts.
The bottom line on this is if your are going to drive the car do it. If you want to win shows don’t.
 
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I even bought a spring loaded adjusting screw from England, that they state takes most of the play out of the steering.

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I have toyed with the rack conversion myself but given how little I drive the car I end up opting against it. But every time I drive my wifes TR4A I think how great the streering is on that car.

Anyhow, can you please give me some details on the spring loaded adjusting screw. Where do ou get it and is there a web site that talks about what it does. If anyone has used one of those I would be interested in comments please.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Anyhow, can you please give me some details on the spring loaded adjusting screw. Where do ou get it and is there a web site that talks about what it does. If anyone has used one of those I would be interested in comments please.

[/ QUOTE ]

Having one TR of each type of steering I can verify that it 'makes a big difference' and 'transforms the steering'. That said, whether or not it is an improvement is somewhat subjective.

I personally enjoy the TR3 box as the steering is quicker and provides (on my cars at least) more feedback. Most of all it has a character that seems to go with the sidescreen car. It is harder steering at very low speed but nothing that is a problem or even a complaint.

I do have the spring loaded adjustment screw -- I think it took a bit of slack out of the system. It is not a cure for a badly worn peg or cam but may improve a box that isn't worn to the point of demanding a rebuild.

It is available stateside from Herman van den Akker (my recollection is $65 or so):

https://www.blindmoosefab.com/hvda.htm

It replace the top on the the box (you need to return your old one to HVDA as a core). The adjustment screw has a spring loaded piston at the bottom (rather than being a solid screw) that puts variable pressure on the peg to compensate for slight wear over the operating range of the cam (tends to wear more at the center). The idea is that you can get the center tighter w/o binding at the extremes of left and right.
 
Great info on the adjustment screw, Geo.

I second Geo's opinion on the rack and pinion: I've driven a TR3A with the conversion, and it is much easier to turn. However, my TR3A has the original type, and I guess I've gotten used to it and don't feel the need to change (especially given that I don't get to drive it every day).

FWIW,
Jiri
 
To bluemiata: I switched mine over about 25 years ago, but kept my old box just in case. Well the old box still sits in the corner of the garage and I think it always will. Really depends on how much you are planning on driving the car. If minimal miles are planned don't change it, on the other hand if you're going to do a circuit of the lower 48. Good luck. Tom Lains
 
Thanks for all the replies. I think I'm going to just rebuild the original front end and drive it that way. I do plan on taking some overnight trips, but I'm sure I won't be doing this to often. With all the front end parts new, I figure the steering will be exceptible. If down the road I decide to switch over, at least all the nuts and bolts to remove the front end will be new and that will make it easy to remove the front nose to change it over. Thanks again for all the input.
 
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