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TR2/3/3A TR3A Project: The Engine is in

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rlandrum

rlandrum

Jedi Trainee
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Last night we worked late and managed to get the engine mounted in the frame.

00032.jpg

00024.jpg


Yes... we know the valve cover is on backwards. :smile:

More engine photos...
https://xjguy.com/triumph/aug20/800x600/00022.jpg
https://xjguy.com/triumph/oct19/800x600/00001.jpg
https://xjguy.com/triumph/oct19/800x600/00012.jpg

Lots more...
https://xjguy.com/triumph/oct19/800x600/
 
Very nice! Keep snapping the shots!
 
rlandrum said:
Yes... we know the valve cover is on backwards. :smile:
Click to expand...
Well, not necessarily. Comparing it to a stock TR3 valve cover where the oil filler is to the front, yes. Compared to a later TR4, no. Besides, I see a breather that points towards the carburetors. Beyond that, I don't have an engine to try my theory right now, but I'm not sure you can reverse the valve cover. I know you can't on the small fours or the sixes.
 
:iagree: I have an early TR4 cover on my TR3, and the oil filler is in the back, but it doesn't have the PCV connector as yours does. That connector was always on the carb side, so you have the valve cover on correctly. The question is now what do you do with the PCV port in your nice looking valve cover?? I also have a later TR4 cover that has the port, and one day (when I have nothing better to do) I will fit the engine with a PCV system.
 
Looks great? What color paint did you use on the exhaust manifold?

What about the thermostat housing?

Any trouble using the engine stand? Secures with four bolts? Easy to rotate upside down?
 
Kentvillehound said:
Looks great? What color paint did you use on the exhaust manifold?
Click to expand...

My father purchased it. I believe it's Silver from Eastwood, and is designed for manifolds.

Kentvillehound said:
What about the thermostat housing?
Click to expand...

It's polished, not painted. It's aluminum (or pot metal, or something else soft), so we wire wheeled it and then ran it against the buffing wheel for about 20 minutes. Came out pretty nice, actually.


Kentvillehound said:
Any trouble using the engine stand? Secures with four bolts? Easy to rotate upside down?
Click to expand...

The arms of the stand are such that it's difficult to get 4 bolts into threaded holes. Instead, I used three bolts into threaded holes in the block, then just placed a bolt through one of the holes where the starter mounts. It held fine with grade 8 5/16 x 5 inch coarse threaded bolts.

The Sunex stand I have worked great. I won't say it's easy to turn it over, since it's geared down 63:1, so in order to turn the engine over, you have to crank it 31.5 times. But that was definitely way easier than trying to turn it by hand (which I've also done). IMHO, it was well worth the money I paid. I even sprung for the drip pan that goes with the stand for an extra $30, and that worked great too. Highly recommended.
 
prb51 said:
Hey, Basil said no porno on the site....that fuel pump is way to sexy.
Click to expand...

If you think that's sexy, an astute observer might note that the black stripe on the bumblebee wire is oriented so as to be on the top. This was not by coincidence. :smile:
 
Awesome, dude!!! Nice work.

Question: Do you think your fuel pump/filter
combo would be a direct bolt-on for a 1969 TR6?

I have the same filter off a 1957 Corvette and your
pump looks like my TR6 pump.

Where did you purchase the combo??

thanks,

d
 
While there is technically a screen within the glass bowl, I hesitate to call the fuel pump a filter of any sort.

That part is standard on TR3As. It's an original pump, or a early after market pump. It's been rebuilt with a new diaphragm and one-way valves. It was then painted silver.

The pump is lever action, driven from a lobe on the camshaft, and is probably similar to the 57 Corvette pump. As far as being identical, I doubt that they are since the Corvette V8 has the camshaft in the center of the block, and the fuel pump is mounted on the lower right side, where it is driven by a pushrod that rides against the cam.

Reproduction versions of the TR3A pump are available from Moss for about $50.
 
rlandrum said:
While there is technically a screen within the glass bowl, I hesitate to call the fuel pump a filter of any sort.
Click to expand...
As a long-time TR3 owner, I disagree. That sediment bowl is actually quite effective at removing anything that is heavier than gasoline (which includes water and rust, the two most common contaminants). And the screen (at least on mine) is fine enough to block anything that might not make it through the rest of the system (and so be able to cause problems). It's not like the carbs have tiny little passages or anything.

I've even had a prankster deliberately dump a handful of dirt into the gas tank, which caused no problems at all other than some consternation when I found the crud in the sediment bowl.

Compared to a paper element filter, that can swell and block off fuel flow with less than a teaspoonful of water, I think the sediment bowl works very well.
 
:iagree: I've driven TRactor motor TR's for many years with only the sediment bowl and screen, and have never run into a problem because of junk getting into anything. Being glass, it very easy to see any sediment build up. Cleaning is very easy and doesn't even require any tools. My TR3 resto does not include any other form of filtration. The bowl and screen worked in the past and it will work in the future. :yesnod:
 
rlandrum said:
While there is technically a screen within the glass bowl, I hesitate to call the fuel pump a filter of any sort.
Click to expand...

I agree with Rob.

In aviation, anyway, a filter is discarded and replaced while a screen is cleaned and re-used.
 
Here is a vintage glass bowl filter I purchased in an
attempt to keep crud and fine, rust dust from filling
my carb float bowls.

It was sold to me as coming from a 1957 Chevy Corvette.
I had the fittings installed at a local speed shop.
I added the magnet on the bottom to further remove
rust dust from my fuel.

Here's my inline filter.

fuelfilter.jpg
 
It should be noted that my fuel "filter" does not detach from the main body of the pump. They are cast together as one unit.

And Dale, if your rust is so bad it requires magnets to remove, I think the time has come for new tank. Aluminum should never need replacing.
 
The only problem I ever had with a TR3A fuel pump filter was, in the mid-1970s, finding a gasket for it. Took a bit of scrounging around some local parts stores, but I got one.

Dale, is there an "AC" logo on your fuel pump? Yes, the TR pump is British, but it's British AC...same company, and probably same engineering/design!
 
Man, that car is coming along beautifully.
Thanks for the pic and you can stand proud of your work. It looks
really nice.
 
Hi There rlandrum,

I just wanted to say I ditto 2wrench.

Looks Outstanding.

Enjoy all the Fun,

Russ
 
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