TR2/3/3A TR3A pinion seal removal

[Bremer]

Hi all, I am having a heck of a time getting that seal out of the rear end. Searching here, there used to be a website from Kurtis Jones detailing how to get it out, but the links no longer work. Could somebody please provide some tips on how to do this?
Thanks!

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Aloha,

I removed mine while the rear axle was in the car. After removing the pinion flange, a hand held seal puller did the job.

 

[TR3driver]

Dave beat me to it ... you need a tool like the one he shows. Takes a good deal of force as well, ISTR using a brass hammer to drive the point into the seal.

PS, here's one at HF https://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html

 

[sp53]

I might add that if you accidently scratch the body of the housing where the seal goes into, put a little silicone or something similar to stop the possibility of a leak. I say this because like Randall suggested they can be really stuck, and please do not ask how I know this.
Steve

 

[Bremer]

Thanks everyone, my seal puller will be here tomorrow.
Is it confirmed that bearing preload is not adjusted with torque or the position of the nut, i.e. can I just tighten the nut with no regard to its previously installed position?

 

[Geo Hahn]

I've done one with 'previous position' and one by torque (when the old flange nut was only finger tight!). Might as well use one or the other, since you don't have those crush washers I would think torque is the thing.

 

[TR3driver]

Is it confirmed that bearing preload is not adjusted with torque or the position of the nut, i.e. can I just tighten the nut with no regard to its previously installed position?

On a TR3A, yes. The bearing preload is set with spacers inside the unit, and the nut should be tightened to the specified torque, which ISTR is somewhere in the vicinity of 85-100 ft lb.

But some later Triumphs (after 1970 I believe) had collapsible spacers which require different treatment.

 

[Bremer]

Just thought I'd post up how I got the nut off with almost no problem at all. The clamp around the pinion flange gave me the leverage I needed.

 

[Guest]

Im kind of surprised that there is no one mentioned to take a {censored} punch and marking the shaft and nut with a mark before removing the nut. Remove the nut,yoke,and pop out the seal and replace the seal using a large socket as a driver. Tighten the nut till the marks align and the pre-load is preserved. Insert cotter pin. I didnt use the correct word for the punch having been scolded in the past and censored myself,not wanting to offend the powers to be.I hope nut is still an acceptable word to use.