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TR2/3/3A TR3A Hardtop Rear Mounting Brackets

tedwone

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I'm assisting an elderly friend restore his 1959 TR3A that he has owned for 55 years. I am in the process of restoring the hardtop but I discovered that he is missing the three middle "L" brackets that secure the rear of the top to the body. Both of the outside brackets are there. I noticed that in the Moss catalog, it shows that these are listed separately (NLA) and I assume that the middle brackets are of different lengths and/or different angles. If there is anyone out there that can provide me with the approximate lengths of the three middle brackets and the angles that they are bent, I can fabricate the brackets that are missing. Thanks in advance for any help that is out there.
 
I hope this helps. The material is .125" thick. All three brackets are the same.
 

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Thanks for responding, but the brackets I need are the ones that are attached to the top itself. The two side brackets are about 1" wide and bent at about 45+ degrees with a length of about 2 3/4". I don't know if the other three brackets are the same length or bent to the same angle.20200425_055819.jpg
 
There are 5 total and they are all 90 degrees like the one in the photo. The back 3 are a little smaller than the front left and right side. The front ones are key, maybe and 3/16 wider. They are all very simply made out of iron 90 stock. I have my top hung up in the attic now, but I think I have some extra brackets that I will look for and try photo. The thing is they do adjust up and down some and you will probably find putting a rubber washer under the bracket on to chrome piece helps stop the rattle and offers more adjustment because the top does not fit like a glove.

There was a nice installation kit for sale on evilbay, but I do not remember if it had good pictures or not, maybe google and see if someone showed the top brackets.
 
Thanks very much for the information. I plan to make the three that are missing as it is quite simple to do. I just needed to confirm that the three missing brackets are exactly like the other two.
 
Hey, Ted, my top is in the rafters as well. The three back brackets under the window look smaller than the front brackets. I went to unscrew them to check but they are unmovable right now; hopefully my application of some PB Blaster will remedy the situation and I can measure tomorrow.

I am missing a front bracket. While you are fabricating some, I would gladly pay you to make an extra for me if you are so inclined.
 
My front bracket, for comparison.735F96DE-5AC4-46E5-B7F0-264790D14052.jpg
 
Kevin, The two brackets I have are slightly different. One is identical to the one you showed for comparison. The other is about 3/4" on the threaded side of the bracket. I will be more than happy to make you the bracket you missing at no cost. One more bracket isn't going to spoil my day. Just let me know which size you will need. Also I noticed that your bracket is slotted. Neither of the brackets I have are slotted. However, I was told that fitting the original tops in England was basically a custom fit from car to car.

Ted
 
Thanks, Ted! Hopefully I can take some pics and measurements tomorrow on my 3 back brackets. I think the PO elongated the hole into a slot. The back brackets look similar.

I will get back to you.7F6B3E12-6E79-4F56-ABD7-08CB18C43871.jpegECE8B3A0-7FC3-4D16-8C18-A31E26C721BB.jpeg
 
Yes the slot is there to let the bracket slid down. The slot on the bottom is probably a good idea. Set the front seal first because that is where you are going to get the rain and wind plus that is the windshield curve. The top will bend and move as you tighten the 5 brackets down and that is why the 2 by the door are so important, so the door will close. I found out the hard way the side-curtains sit about an inch lower with a hard top; had to refit the curtains to the hardtop. The hole for side curtains on my top was nice--- but-- a tight fit and with the overhang of the channels of the top made a up good seal.
 
My front bracket, for comparison.View attachment 63332
Mine are thick metal like yours and slide snugly into the top. When I made new, I bent a longer piece of stock in my vise to get the correct radius. Cutting angle iron was too sharp a bend. I purchased new screws with the large head and short threaded section from one of the big 3, probably Moss. IIRC they are threaded 10-28 but don't quote me on that, it's been a while. Need slots for adjustment.
 
Try as I might, I am unable to unscrew and measure the 3 back brackets, due to the difficult placement of my top in the rafters.

Those screws are really in there tight. A ruler place up there shows 1 3/8 length on the horizontal plane with the slotted hole.

HTH!
 
20200426_125637_resized_1.jpg20200426_125703_resized_1.jpg
The part that attaches to the body is about 1 3/8", but as you can see, the distance where they attach to the top is different. Obviously one goes to the side mounts on the top and the other goes to one of the middle mounting points on the top, I just don't know which is which.
 

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Ted, I think the most the center brackets can be is 3/4 inch. I can slightly rock mine around the center axis of the screw.

CF86CABF-8868-4609-BDC3-74162B4E19D5.jpeg677C240F-58F7-42F6-A043-F1C31D97E936.jpeg
 
Great Kevin! Now I know which brackets go where and I can proceed with getting the raw material this week to fabricate what I need. I will make an additional outside bracket for you in addition to the ones I am making for my old friend. Thanks again for all of your help. I will let you know when I have the brackets completed.
 
Ted, my thanks!
 
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