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TR2/3/3A TR3A - front hood attachment snaps

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angelfj1

angelfj1

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Just returned from the Triumph Register of America Annual Meet in Western , Kentucky. Yes, I drove her - all 1900 miles. She ran like a scalded dog - no problems. No generator issues and I ran day and night with headlamps lit.

Question: We drove the interstates with posted limits up to 70 mph. So, there was some very spirited driving with occasional bursts to 80+. At these speeds I was not able keep the soft top snaps fastened. The middle one and often the two on either side would loosen. Occasional rain spray was refreshing, but not requested. Of course the top, snaps and pegs are all new. Is there a trick to the proper use of these Tenax soft top fasteners?
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Cheers,

Frank
 
Hello Frank,
Two thoughts come to mind:
1) you pull the button to set it on the peg and have to push it down to "clamp" it on.
2) newer type ragtop come with "the flap" (requires you to cut a hole so the peg goes to snap). This makes the thickness of the total top material double what it was with older ragtops (the kind when they decided to use the pantex snap)

I'm not sure why they added this flap. I drove TR3's for 20 years with the old non-flap tops without a problem. With the thicker flap it is tough to keep the pantex connected. Some people pull the flap to the inside of the windshield and that seems to help.

BTW, you're my hero: 1900 miles! I hope you have an OD! Pat
 
Yeh I have the same problem. I use a couple of those large 2inch black paper clip/binders if I go much faster than 60. They are gentle andtough enough and easy too clip the top to the frame, and when I am going slower,I just unclip them and put them behind the set.
 
The key is to leave the top off and not slow down. If you're tall, you have to hunch a bit!

I had the same problem with the new top. But I cut the holes in that flap oversized, so the tenax goes all the way down over the stud. Also, although the instructions say to do the windscreen After the rear snaps, don't. Do the windscreen first. I have even gone as far as to lightly tap the pull buttons with a plastic hobby hammer to ensure the tenax is locked down. Like Pat says, pull the button while you put the tenax on the stud, then very lightly tap it back down to lock it.

With all that, they will stay locked.
 
My experience with the older tops that did have the underside flap is that they had about a half inch hole that was heat seamed around the hole. This meant that it fit over the tenax stud and gave ample room for the tenax snap to come all of the way down and snug over the stud without the flap being at all in the way. But the flap is there it prevent at least some of the rain from getting in.
Actually, most of the time my tops were rain tight it was the forward lower corners of the side curtains that provided the light shower while you drove. A handerchief stuffed in that space took care of that. Isn't that how they were designed????
Charley :encouragement:
 
Hoo I might I put my top on wrong. I have a Prestige topfrom England and it has about a inch and half flap with an about 5/16 rubberbead running most the length on the front, but I just let the flap stay inside the cab. Was I supposed to havefolded the flap so that the 5/16 rubber bead went outside the cab to thewindshield?
 
sp53 said:
Hoo I might I put my top on wrong. I have a Prestige topfrom England and it has about a inch and half flap with an about 5/16 rubberbead running most the length on the front, but I just let the flap stay inside the cab. Was I supposed to havefolded the flap so that the 5/16 rubber bead went outside the cab to thewindshield?
Click to expand...
Wow I'd like to know the answer to this too! I have always wondered what the flap was for.
 
I am not familiar with the particular top you reference. However, the extra flap is put there to help seal the space between the top of the windshield and the cloth top. Can you find some way to fit that extra flap between the windshield and the cloth top but not inside of the car? The ideal situation is to be able to fit the extra flap over the base of the tenax studs but still allow the tenax fasteners to sit all of the way down on the studs and lock in place. So most of us have to punch holes in that flap to allow this to happen. But if that flap is to thick to start with this might not be possible.
Charley :encouragement:
 
What is being missed here is that Frank and his 3A won the Best of Show at TRA's National in 2012. TRA's Concours judging is based on their standards as written in the manual and all cars are treated and scored equally. TRA uses the 100 point system and it is common that the top two or three cars are seperated by a single point! Simply put the top score is Best of Show! With TRA the only thing that counts is originality and quality of the restoration. I am aware of several of the past's Best of Show winners at TRA and they all were born as trailer queens are are to this day. For Frank to win Best of Show and the following year drive a 1900 mile round trip to the next TRA show is astounding!


Frank is further proof that you need not add a bunch of silly "mods" to make these cars reliable.


Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
I second what Lou said above, outstanding Frank.
 
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