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Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Wire Wheels

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CJD

CJD

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Well, I'm down to my last major project...the wire wheels. They have a handful of bent spokes and the old paint is, well, ...old. I plan to disassemble them, clean them up, paint, and reassemble...not necessarily in that order. Step one is always research, as I don't want to "re-invent the wheel"! Wondered if anyone can point me to previous posts or articles about the project that give tips and "how to's". Recommendations on whether to paint assembled or disassembled and such.

Thanks,

John
 
If the splines are OK, easiest way is to replace any bent spokes, true up, sandblast and powdercoat. There's a metallic silver available now very much like the factory color.

I'd shudder at the thought of re-assembling fully dismantled wires - the car would wind up riding like it was Barney Rubble's.

Viv.
 
This tech article has the info you're looking for. It also suggests that since most of the adjusting nipples get seized onto the spokes, the easiest thing to do is just cut all the spokes off and replace with new.
 
Art, last time I bought spokes they were $6.00 per each. I just looked up in the Moss catalog. The painted 60 spoke wire wheel is $268 plus shipping. I would opt for the new wheels. They may still have to be tuned but at least the nipples won't be rusted in. I found that I had to replace three to get to the bad one. Fun thing to do when your stuck inside due to the weather.
Tinkerman
 
boy thats an interesting article, I tried to true a bike wheel one time and I royally screwed the wheel up I can only imagine trying to true a car wheel

Hondo
 
Tinkerman said:
Art, last time I bought spokes they were $6.00 per each. I just looked up in the Moss catalog. The painted 60 spoke wire wheel is $268 plus shipping. I would opt for the new wheels. They may still have to be tuned but at least the nipples won't be rusted in.
Tinkerman
Click to expand...

Six bucks for spokes is a lot of money. :eeek:

I agree that new wires are really the way to go if you can swing it. It's possible to work out some killer deals with Moss on a whole set of wires. When I was in the market, I talked to Allen at Hendrix Wire Wheel, the guru of wire wheels, and he told me to make a deal with Moss and have them drop shipped to him, as he was supplying me with new tires and tubes. For a big sum of money, he RE-TRUED the new wheels, as he likes to keep the tolerances tighter then the manufacturer. He mounted the tires, balanced everything, and SHAVED the tires round. The high price was soon forgotten after the first drive...rock steady up to 85 before I backed off. Also, if you get new wheels, you can go up in size. I'm running 185's with a 5.5" rim on my TR3.
 
If you do go with new wheels, check the condition of the hub splines before buying. If they're bent, sharp along the top or otherwise noticeably worn then the new wheels will prematurely wear and possibly after awhile be difficult to remove as the splines hook together.
 
Thanks all! Also, very interesting article Art! That's what I needed.

I have not cleaned of the slines yet, but that will be step one. From what I am hearing, worn splines are the main thing that will leave the project dead in the water. Time to plug in the parts washer...

John
 
Well, sorry...this "how to" is dead in the water. Cleaned the hubs and they are pretty shot. They are useable, but the splines are too worn to put any time or money into. So that's it...the restoration is officially finished. Time for a new project!

Ps...any recommendations on best place to get new wires?

John


Edit:
Funny, I've been sitting here going through the google list for wire wheels and it brought me back to my own post....guess the world is round!
 
John, when you get the new wires, consider wiping silicone inside the hubs around the spoke heads. It seals against spline grease working its way out along the spokes.

Another suggestion is to only apply grease to the splines, not the tapers each end. That way the knock-ons get a better grip to stop wheel movement, which wears the splines. I just use a quick squirt of WD40 on the tapers to act against surface rust.

Viv.
 
CJD said:
Ps...any recommendations on best place to get new wires?

John
Click to expand...

Like I mentioned in the earlier post, you should be able to work out a deal with Moss on a whole set. There's some people that won't buy the Dunlops that Moss offers because of past quality problems. Allen at Hendrix Wire Wheel has assured me that those issues are long gone, except for their chrome plating which is still not as good as the Daytons. But, if you're looking for painted wires (which I feel are more appropriate for the TR's), then the Dunlops are fine. You can also go up in size if you want to put fatter rubber on the road. The you can take your best hub and make up one wheel for a spare.
 
Thanks for the tips Viv and Art! Since I have her rolling on the solid wheels, I have time to shop around...sooner or later a deal will turn up!?!

Thanks

John
 
martx-5 said:
You can also go up in size if you want to put fatter rubber on the road. The you can take your best hub and make up one wheel for a spare.
Click to expand...
But don't forget the wider wheels aren't going to fit in the spare tire well. If you have a flat on the road, the flat will have to ride home behind the seats. Not a big issue, just something to keep in mind.
 
<span style="font-size: 11pt"><span style="color: #003300">Seriously though,if it's TR3, 3A or 3B the 60 spoke wire won't fit in the spare compartment even with the standard 165 tire. Look around for a 48 spoke to use as a spare. That 1/2 inch makes all the difference and a deflated (flat) 165 on a 60 spoke wheel WILL fit in the "closet". On the plus side, the supplier for the Moss Dunlops "silicones" the inside of each wheel making it possible to go tubeless. I was skeptical at first but I've got 1000 miles on mine with no problems.
FRank </span></span>
 
Starting with TS60001, the spare tire compartment height was increased. The floor in the trunk is raised over the spare tire compartment. The 165 tire on the 60-spoke wire wheel I'm using as a spare is snug, but it does fit in just fine, fully inflated. IIRC, you have to put the wire wheel in upside down...with the outer part of the hub down, or it won't go in.
 
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