-
Hi Guest!
You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR2/3/3A tr3 valve spring compressor
- Thread starter sp53
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
I have used the Lisle 36200 valve keeper remover and installer on a Mercedes 190e and it worked very well. worth taking a look at. Frank
If you have the head off and want to get started with a disassembly you can remove the keepers and springs by putting a socket,about 3/4 or so, on top of retainer and give it a good whack with a hammer and keepers will pop out.
Then once you order all you parts most likely your going to a machine shop who can assemble after required machining.
Tom
Then once you order all you parts most likely your going to a machine shop who can assemble after required machining.
Tom
Thanks you guys. The one I was thinking about are the ones back in high school that looked like a big C clamped deal with cups on the end to hold the valve. The new tube stuff today I see looks like it would be difficult getting the keeps back in place, but would remove the keeps easy. The truth is I have never removed the keepers before, so I am learning.
I have a couple of more old complete heads with the valves in place. The one in the picture on the head fixing post had the valves removed and painted green with some kind of primmer by the PO. The PO painted the green over an un-prepped surface with a lot of carbon and grease still on the casting. I plan on cleaning and then painting the head later. I will probably only use the tool a few times, so it would be a good idea to borrow one at O’rileys.
Steve
I have a couple of more old complete heads with the valves in place. The one in the picture on the head fixing post had the valves removed and painted green with some kind of primmer by the PO. The PO painted the green over an un-prepped surface with a lot of carbon and grease still on the casting. I plan on cleaning and then painting the head later. I will probably only use the tool a few times, so it would be a good idea to borrow one at O’rileys.
Steve
CJD
Yoda
Offline
The locks become truly "locked" over time. This makes it hard for the spring compressor to release the half locks. So...
Before you remove the valves after they have been run, place a large socket under the valve head you are working on, so the head rests on the socket. Then take another deep socket, about 9/16 to 7/8", and place it over the valve spring retainer. Rap it hard with a hammer. That will break the tension on the half locks so that the spring compressor can work easily. It is possible the locks will fly out when you do this, if you hit too hard...thus the deep socket to keep everything together! But, you only need to hit them hard enough to feel the spring flex. That means the locks are loosened.
Before you remove the valves after they have been run, place a large socket under the valve head you are working on, so the head rests on the socket. Then take another deep socket, about 9/16 to 7/8", and place it over the valve spring retainer. Rap it hard with a hammer. That will break the tension on the half locks so that the spring compressor can work easily. It is possible the locks will fly out when you do this, if you hit too hard...thus the deep socket to keep everything together! But, you only need to hit them hard enough to feel the spring flex. That means the locks are loosened.