TR2/3/3A TR3 Valve noise

[Deleted member 451]

I’m at my wits end on this one. I have what sounds like a valve ticking in my 59 TR3. I’ve adjusted all the valves to .010 and one still ticks. I have a Click-adjust but find it to inaccurate to use. If I’m right it has a variance of .0025 per click so you never really know how you’re set. I’ve tried .009 but the tick is still there so I moved it back. About the same whether hot or cold (a little less when hot). Any ideas?

 

[Tomster]

Same issue with my 4A, hoping for an answer and inexpensive solution as well. Does the sound of yours vary depending on running time or temp?

 

[TR6oldtimer]

I had this problem on my 4 and 6. A rocker that would not adjust or maintain adjustment.

I have experienced a situation where one of the rocker posts and securing stud was loose allowing flexing of the shaft so first check all attaching studs are properly torqued.

But more probable the rocker arm is worn where it contacts the valve stem. The common wear point is in the form of an indentation where the rocker contacts the valve stem. If this is the case, you can set the clearance all you want, but because you are measuring between high spots, you will never get the clearances desired.

So remove the rocker shaft and inspect all the parts for wear, including the push rods. Replace as necessary.

If all the top end parts are in good shape, then maybe you have a sticking valve which I have never experienced, but would mean to me a valve job is in your future.

 

[martx-5]

It's quite possible that the rocker arm has a divot in it where it contacts the top of the valve. When using a feeler gauge, it won't take into consideration this recess, so consquently, even though the "clearance" was set properly, there is still excessive clearance due to the divot in the rocker.

Remove the rocker shaft and rockers, and look at the bottom where it contacts the valve stem. You will see right away if that's your problem.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Hi,

The previous suggestions are all right on the money.

I have to ask, has any other work been done on the engine recently?

In addition:

Check for rocker shaft wear (usually more than one valve will be noisy, though), which unfortunately requires remnoving and tearing the whole rocker assembly apart. This is because it's hard to detect any wear or play otherwise. While doing this, be sure to mark and keep rocker arms and all moving parts matched up to their original locations.

If it is the shaft, it's recommended to replace with a hardened one instead of the stock one (Moss sells them, perhaps others do too). New bushings will be needed in all the rockers, if the shaft needs replacing. These need to be honed to size after installation, and this is an opportunity to more accurately set up a true 1.5:1 ratio (stock is usually closer to 1.45:1, although stated as 1.5:1), if you can find someone who knows how to do it. (Greg Solow at The Engine Room in Santa Cruz, Calif. does this, perhaps others do too.)

Another possibilty is valve guide wear. This allows the valve to move sideways and, if bad enough, can make for a lot more noise and difficulty setting the valve lash. This wear often occurs much more rapidly if the valve geometry is off, such as after a camshaft is reground and/or if the head is milled to increase compression. The pushrods should be carefully sized for length to accommodate these other changes. If that wasn't done, misaligned rocker arms can exert too much lateral pressure on the valve stem and very rapidly cause guide wear.

Also check carefully for any obstructions or gunk blocking oil delivery to the rocker assembly, which comes up the rear pedestal and through the rocker shaft.

Other possibilities:

The valve springs are getting old and need replacement.

Valve seat recession due to unleaded gas, this usually shows up as the adjuster reaching the end of its range.

Oh, and if you remove the rocker assembly and mess around with the pushrods in any way, be sure to keep them all sorted in their original locations and be a little cautious lifting them out. Plus, sometimes oil in the lifter cup will form a bit of suction around the bottom end of the pushrod, so that the lifter will come up along with it as you remove the pushrod. Once this happens, the lifter is then trapped within the head and can be a real bugger to get back into it's hole. It can be bad enough that the head has to come off, which means a new head gasket, manifold gaskets, etc., at the very least. (Don't ask me how I know!) So, if you have reason to remove the pushrods, use something like a long, thin screwdriver alongside each pushrod to gently and carefully keep the lifter nicely seated on the camshaft.

Hope this gives you some ideas.