TR2/3/3A TR3 Tranny, Starting on it!

[Tinkerman]

Well! The first thing that I have to do is remove the wedge lock screw. A tough job from what I have read. Attached is a picture of what I have. A big bad, take a lotta of torque and force phillips head screw that has been messed up by a PO. I currently have it soaking in KROIL hoping that it will help. Any ideas on removable would be appreciated.

Heat? Al case, got to be careful with that I would think. Screw is standing proud of the wedge lock, perhaps a vice grip? I don't know how really tight it is.

Any thoughts would be deeply appreciated.

Thanks, Tinkerman

 

[TR3driver]

Heat is strictly a last resort, IMO, especially around aluminum and hardened gears. Mine actually came out fairly easily, using a #3 Philips screwdriver and a wrench on the shank. But if that didn't work, my next step would be a Hand Impact Driver which you should be able to find at NAPA or any motorcycle shop.

If that still doesn't work, take a left-handed drill bit to it.

BTW, I assume you realize that's not a TR3 tranny

 

[Tinkerman]

Yep, its not, very astute of you to notice. I have a hand/hammer type of impact I thought that would be an option. Didn't think that heat would really be an option. It is a TR 4 syncromesh tranny that the PO bought. He also bought an OD to go with it. I would really like to put it all together cause it kind of makes sense to do so. Make it more fun to drive I suspect.

Not sure what's under that wedge lock screw. Hate to get flaying away with a hand impact and a BFH, might break things. Kind of worried about the already buggered screw, as an example of how tough it might be to pull.

Will check it out tomorrow morning after the Kroil has had a chance to work.

Thoughts always appreciated!

Tinkerman

 

[tdskip]

Take lots of pictres and keep us posted. Good luck.

 

[TR3driver]

Not sure what's under that wedge lock screw.

Nothing magical at all. All it does is hold that steel plate in place, which in turn locks the countershaft and reverse gear shafts in place. Likely some previous mechanic tried to use a #2 Philips driver and messed up the head.

Possibly it's been put in with Loctite, in which case some heat might help. But only to the 400F or so it takes to loosen Loctite. I'd try the impact driver first, as it usually works really well on steel screws into aluminum.

 

[RonMacPherson]

It is in aluminum threads, unless someone has installed thread inserts.

Okay, use an impact driver, Sears, any tool truck, most flaps carry them.

Now the caveat. That looks like it is a reed and prince screw, not a phillips. I remember the ones in the trannies I took apart(four or five, I forget, it's been so long, and several times on a couple of them). Looks like a phillips but like the reed and prince on the carburetor hold downs it is cut slightly different.

So get to a tool truck, usually Snap-on or Matco, carry the impact bits on the trucks.

Probably was loctited. So Randalls offering some good advice, I also recommend solvent saturation, usually fingernail polish remover works very well for seeping into the threads.

Make sure the bit completely fills the slots in the screw head, then using a mallet or a brass hammer(recommend, but a ballpeen will work) whack it once as if you are tightening it. As that helps loosen up any feldergarb on the threads, then loosen it with the impact...

 

[Tinkerman]

I am truly happy to report that pre-soaking the screw with Kroil and the use of the hand impact along with the use of a BIG ball peen hammer did the trick. Four blows with the hammer, one righty tighty as Ron suggested and 3 lefty loosy and it was finger free. Yea!!!!!

Thanks all of you for your suggestions! Gotta love the Forum!

Tinkerman