TR2/3/3A TR3 tranny seals

[prb51]

I recently pulled the drive shaft, tranny cover and exhaust system to access and change out my pinions diff seal and my tranny seal (non od) just forward of the shaft flange.
Pinion seal worked swimmingly.
The tranny seal OTOH is a modern affair and obviously a 'replacement' for the original as the originals are probably not made anymore.
I noted the ease of removal was just too easy and so was the the pressure required to seat the seal.
Anyways the thing (purch from a major LBC parts seller) still leaks (although not as bad as before but irritating.
Does anyone know of a fix for this or a place one can get a proper rear tranny seal? I'd pull the whole thing again to rectify this drip.

 

[TR3driver]

The rear seal I got from TRF recently was a nice, snug fit. A modern, all-rubber design, bit harder to get in place (had to put a driver over the entire seal instead of being able to just tap around the rim as you could with the steel/rubber ones) but it seems to work well. As always, I put a light smear of Hylomar around the outside diameter of the seal beforehand, and wiped away the excess afterwards.

It's important to be certain the sealing surface on the rear flange is in good shape. I like to polish it up just a bit with crocus cloth any time I replace the seal; then if there is a dark ring left where the old seal rode, continue polishing until it's gone. The old rule of thumb was that if you could catch a fingernail in the groove, it was too large, but I've seen them leak even when I couldn't catch a nail in the groove. Clean with soap and water to be sure all traces of abrasive are removed. Or a Speedi-sleeve is an option if you can't polish away the groove.

Be sure to lubricate the flange surface and the lips of the seal, before putting the flange in place. Dry startup can damage the new seal instantly.

Rarely, I've seen a leak through the center of the flange. A little RTV or Hylomar on the washer helps prevent leaks at this point. Don't forget to torque that nut to specification (85-100 ftlb). Original nuts were castellated with a cotter pin; but if someone has 'upgraded' to a Nyloc nut, I would suggest replacing it. Nylocs lose their holding ability with repeated removal & installation.

 

[prb51]

Randall,
The modern seal I received from Moss went in with finger pressure alone and the modern seal it replaced came out with finger pressure. I'll get one from TRF and do her again.
There were no grooves in the flange and the castle nut w/pin are there. I just think the seal was a lousy fit.
I'm going to (might as well) replace the 3 upper seals around the shift rods. Didn't you mention a better deal for that too? What was it?

 

[TR3driver]

I just think the seal was a lousy fit.

Sure sounds like it !<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I'm going to (might as well) replace the 3 upper seals around the shift rods. Didn't you mention a better deal for that too? What was it? [/QUOTE]What I wound up with was this :
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=90025K226&pagenum=3361
plus this :
https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=9560K53&pagenum=3364
Bit expensive buying 50/100 of them, but I expect that to be a lifetime supply, so I'm not too worried about it.

No doubt there are cheaper ways to do it; I believe Herman uses ordinary round O-rings plus brass backup washers he finds at Home Depot in the plumbing department. Unfortunately, I've forgotten whether they come in the right size or he has to cut them to fit.