TR4/4A TR3/TR4 Clutch Fork Install Question

[CCURTISS]

While I have my trans out I decided to get a new clutch fork, fork pen, shaft, shaft bushings and a new throw out bearing sleeve for the new bearing.

The new throw out bearing sleeve slides on the input shaft fine before the fork is installed. I then installed the fork, pushed the shaft through then I installed the fork pin.

When I screw it into the folk and tighten it down the throw out bearing sleeve seems to binds quite a bit while I move the level towards disengaging. I loosened the pin a few turns and at the point it became easy to turn the shaft worked much more freely but if I continue to unscrew the pin it then begins to bind again. I screw it back in just a little then everything is free but I can not run the pin all the way in without binding.

My question is, should the fork pin be screwed all the way in tight or is it supposed to be adjustable for this purpose. I know I need to run a wire through the pin and that may be because it is adjustable but the books are not clear on the install procedure.

Thanks,

 

[TFR]

The pin should be tight. It is not an adjustment point.

The fork should have the flat spots toward the pressure plate.

 

[CCURTISS]

That is how I have it installed but when I tighten it it binds and I can not see why it does.

 

[DrEntropy]

It may be that you're taking it past where it would go when installed against the P/plate. If it "binds" throughout the travel you need to find why. If it's binding at a travel beyond where it would be during use, you've no worries.

 

[CCURTISS]

It may be that you're taking it past where it would go when installed against the P/plate. If it "binds" throughout the travel you need to find why. If it's binding at a travel beyond where it would be during use, you've no worries.

When installed what is the bearing travel range over the input shaft cover? It does seem to bind more towards the tansmission side of the cover and does work more freely where it would engage the plate?

 

[Don Elliott]

I remember instaling a new (repro) yoke with the two pins installed. I can't remember what was off center, but the pins were not centered. Maybe the yoke was cast off center. Or the hole for the taper pin was drilled about 1/8" from the correct position. This caused one pin to be about 1/8" too short and the other pin was 1/8" "too long". Not really too long but being off center, it bottomed in the groove for the throw out bearing and this cause it to jam there.

I shortened the "long pin" and it worked fine after that.

 

[DrEntropy]

It'll be a bit of "to-and-fro" but: Offer the trans up with all assembled correctly, mark/measure where the fork arm is located when the T/O bearing is *just* in contact with the plate. Remove the box and figure it will only go "forward" on the shaft collar by approximately half an inch or so. "Backward" from the index mark even less. If it feels as if it binds in that travel range you may have a problem. I'm guessing it won't, tho. :wink:

 

[CCURTISS]

Thanks for all the info. I played around with it a bunch, screwing it in and out a bit and finally got it to move fairly free with the fork screw backed off about ¼ or ½ turn.

Now for the embarrassing news :frown: I put the transmission in bolted it up to the motor then remembered (after all of the excitement and joy of getting it to work correctly) that I forgot to install the safety wire through the screw and fork so out it came for a quick fix. I totally thought about the wire several times but just forgot. At least I remembered before I installed the drive shaft and tunnel?

I am now an expert at trans removal and reinstall, have it down to 20 mins or so

 

[Tinster]

ccurtis: when you pull the tranny back out; you might want
to consider strenghening the fork/shaft with a thru bolt.

Here are 2 photos of my TR4A assembly.

regards,

dale