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Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 Top Question

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mountainman

mountainman

Jedi Trainee
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What is a fair price to pay to have a TR3 top fitted with snaps? I have everything. Also I saw one of the big three has the lift-the dot tool for like 75.00 I will also need my tonneau done so it might be better to buy the tool and give it a shot myself. Is it hard to do?
Thanks
Greg
 
I never found it especially hard to do... you have to take your time, measure twice, do a bit, fit it up, do a bit more.

I do not use the purpose built tool, just a hole punch and an xacto knife plus a few other common tools and a couple of blocks of wood. I also find a white 'China' marker helpful if the top/tonneau is black.
 
It's tedious, somewhat time consuming but not terribly difficult. (Pretty much has to be fitted to your car, one snap at a time.) I've always done my own, but I'd guess a shop would want something in the region of $150 -$200. (3-4 hours labor @ $50/hr).

The tool is optional as well. I use an X-acto knife, a piece of cardboard and a pair of pliers for the LTD fasteners. Use the bottom plate as a template to cut the 4 slits, then install the halves, crimp the pins, and cut out the exposed vinyl in the hole.
 
I've found it helpful to start with the middle fixing and work out to each side. And I like to duct tape the soft top to the windscreen before marking the first punch hole.

The most important alignment is across the windscreen, and to keep the soft top stretched tightly down on the rubber seal as you work across. Otherwise rainwater forced up past that seal at highway speed becomes a torrent, instead of the usual occasional drip.

Definately time consuming and needing full concentration.

The pointy art knife (X-acto) like a scalpel is best for the LTD prong holes as a box cutter makes then too long.

Viv.
 
I never needed that expensive punch. For alignment, do as above. Start in the middle. Lay the loose tonneau cover across the car and match the amount hanging down each side. I've heard of some who assume the car is centered and the tonneau is cut and sewn centally. They ended up 1" or more short along the driver's side - even though they "started in the middle" because the tonneau was smaller towards one side.

I mark the first holes with a chalk pencil or ball-point pen for the two dots at the center rear which are both off center about 4" to each side of the gas filler cap on center on a TR3A. With the positions marked, I hammer punch a sharp round hole punch - 1/2" dimater if I remember corectly (a set of full sizes are cheap from somewhere like Harbor Freight) for at least the first hole or maybe 2. I back it up on a block of sofe pinewood.

Then I punch the 4 pointed tool through the tonneau cover to get the 4 diagonal holes for the new plate to locate the new outer snap.

I made this punch from one of the plates I took off an old top or tonneau cover. Then you straighten out these 4 tabs with the rounded ends. File or grind these rounded ends to be pointed and you have your punch. You may have to do a bit of hand filing to make these 4 points really sharp. Then hit a hammer onto this home-made punch into a block of soft wood to make the 4 holes in the tonneau cover. This is where the others above mention the exacto-knife to ensure the holes are ready. Personally, I have not needed to do this. Now you can assemble the new outer plate and back-plate onto the edge of the tonneau cover. Fold over the rounded ends to secure it. Keep the sharpened one as your punch for all the other holes you will need to make. Snap the tonneau onto the first peg and do the next hole - working your way towards the side. pulling it on tight after each one so the next hole will be located tightly.

There are some you say to start with the front along the top of the dash. It's your choice.
 
Don Elliott said:
...With the positions marked, I hammer punch a sharp round hole punch - 1/2" dimater if I remember corectly...
Click to expand...

1/2" sounds a bit large to me, I think the punch I use is more like 3/16" -- big enough for the LTD peg plus a little wiggle room.

I too have used an old fastener as a punch but didn't think to actually sharpen the tabs to a point -- d'oh!
 
Aloha,

I agree with Geo that 1/2 is too large. The diameter center hole of the LTD metal fastener is 1/4" and the peg is about 3/16" diameter. I just eye balled it with a ruler, I didn't use a caliper. I would recommend you use a scrap piece material and try a LTD first with a 3/16" punch to see if that works.
 
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