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TR2/3/3A TR3 top/bows fitment and added strap

TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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I read through a bunch of posts and found some great information regarding the top fitment, and the general recommendation to not attach the rearmost bow to the web. I did that, and my top fits very tight -even on a 90 degree day. Last night I tried it out, and it was a little under 90, but it only took a few minutes at 70mph for the rear bow to wiggle back forward from where I struggled to push it. Shortly after the bow moved forward, the lowest lift-the-dot (nearest the door handle) lost tension, and the wind blew it off. I pulled over and removed the top for a very pleasant top-down drive across the city of Houston where the traffic never sleeps.

Today, I made another strap with a male and a female snap on it. I had plenty of leftover webbing, and sewed the ends to keep them from fraying. The new added strap goes under the old one at the rear edge of the car secured by the screw/stud. After the top is up, and the knee is locked, I can force the rear bow towards the rear of the car until it is where it should be, slide the new strap around it, and snap it to keep the rear bar from vibrating back forward. I made one for both the left and right side. The pictures show just before snapping the male/female snaps together. I haven't tested it at speed, but it seems like a good idea to me. Anyone else had this problem?

Incidentally, do I have the lift-the-dot snaps installed in the proper orientation?

Jer

left_rear_strap.jpg
LD_snap.jpg
 
Looks like it should work. I just attached my strap permanently, and have no trouble. The top goes up first, then I pop the over centers on the stick frame.

Your lift a dot is the standard orientation. I did my top like that. It is a bit hard to get your finger under to pop them loose if the top is tight. For my tannau and stick covers, I rotated them so the dots are off 90 degrees and pointing outboard/forward. They are much easier to pop loose that way. You start at center and work forward to latch, and start forward and work to center to remove.
 
Mine is attached too. Never had a problem and this top was installed new by me a couple of years ago. Nice and tight in all temps here. As John said, since you lift the 'Dot' to release, it's best to orient them where they work best for removal. I sometimes use a nylon pry bar to gently pop mine loose when they're too tight to flip with my bare hands.
 
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