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TR2/3/3A TR3 to work on

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tomgt6

Jedi Warrior
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I got a call the other day from a guy with a TR3 that needs some work done on to get it back on the road.

Here is the list:

-FInish the brakes all rebuilt but 1 caliper needs to be put back on and then the brake system filled and bleed.
-Fuel system cleaned and checked over
-front apron put on
-all fluids changed and filled
-Lube everything
-rebuild carbs
-put the engine pulling on right so timing mark is right
-clean up the interior
-put in the carpet set
-put in the interior
-clean up a few surface rost spots like the battery box
-check the electrical and make sure gauges work

Then she should be ready to get back on the road. He did a frame off in the 80s and the car has sat since then. Should be a fun project for the next couple of months. Lucky the guy wants a driver vs a pristine job. At least that is in my abilities.

So I will be asking alot of questions over the next couple months since I am a spitfire and herald guy vs a TR guy. So thanks ahead of time.
 
Also can someone tell me more about these numbers

Commission number is TS35468L

body number is EB35499

Engine number is CT63997E
 
tomgt6 said:
Commission number is TS35468L

body number is EB35499

Engine number is CT63997E
Click to expand...

I was curious, too, so I looked it up in the MOSS TR 2-4 catalog.
Body is a mid 1958. Engine isn't original; 3's engines started w/ TS.
Engine would appear to be from a very early '66 TR4A.

Have fun!
 
The TS and the EB numbers were born together on a TR3A, around late 1958.

The engine number is from a late 1965 TR4A. Rather doubt that the 4A intake and SU carburetors are there since the 4A had a central pull type linkage and there probably would be inner fender clearance problems.

The parts and all timing settings for the engine is the same as for the 3A.

Lou Metelko
Auburn, Indiana
 
It has the SU carbs. I guess I will need to take some pictures so everyone can help me.
 
Careful Tom, you'll be a TR guy by the end of this....
I'm curious to see a pic of the engine bay and see what kind of mix of parts is there. Which intake, which carbs, PCV system, or the road draft tube put in the TR4 block. In the end just about any mix works, aside from clearance issues like Lou said.
These guys here are THE source for this kind of project. just be sure to keep us hooked with plenty of pics. we're a nosy bunch.
 
Looks like tight quarters...
 
That looks like a very decent car.
 
Engine compartment looks as good if not better than the one on eBay that they want $24,000 for. :smile:

Scott
 
I was looking at the pictures more last night and I will need to look at the car in the daylight and see if maybe they did something to the hood to give it more room. It almost looks like there is a bump out put on the hood but like I said I need to look at it in the daylight.
 
Looks good. I'm pretty sure I can see the road draft tube. the valve cover is TR3 as is the intake and carbs. Looks like someone replaced the tired original motor with a newer one, but did a nice job of using all the original TR3 bolt-on parts. Overall the pics show a good solid car. Some TLC, and you'll be on the road!
I like the wood dash plate. Factory would be a textured black paint, but I like the look of the wood.
Have fun. Start looking for another on just like it, as you'll not want to give this one back when you're done. hehehehe
I believe those carbs and that intake should be the right ones for that car. They are tight, but should fit under the bonnet fine.
 
So what I am hearing is the block may be a 4 the rest of the parts look like a 3.
 
Sunds like it. If the block and head are both TR4A, then you have the last version of the 4 cylinder that was put in the TRs. They had better flowing heads, and bigger pistons (86mm from 82mm), and made the most horsepower of all the 4 cylinders 104hp, up from 95 on the 3A). Best part is they are visually identical on the outside to the earlier engines (Once the road draft system had been swapped in for the newer PCV equipment) and the only betraying detail is the number.
Essentially having that motor in a TR3A makes it about the same spec as the 3B (It does not make it a TR3B)
It's not an "incorrect" motor Just not the original. and does not affect the value unless you're going for concourse correctness. The only place it makes a difference is if you rebuild the engine. then you need to know that so you can order the right parts.
If it makes a difference, I'm building up a TR4A motor to put in my TR2. I don't have the original engine,and figured I'd put money into the engine that'll give me the most performance and still be "close" to original.
 
I am not sure I will be a TR guy. I just had to change the timing pully to be right. The last guy put it 90 degrees off. What a pain. I am also doing this without a manual at this point. Good thing for the break down diagrams. Took 2 of us about 3 hours to get this done. And that was with the front apron already off.
 
tomgt6 said:
I am also doing this without a manual at this point.
Click to expand...

https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffYWZiN2VlZGMtNTkxMi00NGUzLWE4NzMtMGRkODRkYzU3MDU1

More handy info available:
https://docs.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffMDVmOTZlZWItYTcyMy00ZDhkLTliOWEtOWU1OWRhNDZhYmRl

BTW, I agree entirely with Banjo. Whoever made the swap appears to have done a very nice job of keeping the TR3 ancillaries. Since the front plate also has to be changed, I would guess he only replaced the block.

As far as ordering parts, regardless of the block number you need to check what pistons it has before ordering anything to do with them. I started putting in 87mm liners way back in the 70s, as they were actually cheaper (from Warshawski's) than the original 83mm liners. And who wouldn't want some more torque?
 
I have an early TR4 that was produced with the TR3B engine. Looks exactly like yours, road draft tube same type valve cover except vent is on the rear, same log type intake manifold, etc. So it could be an early 4 engine.
 
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