TR2/3/3A TR3 thin belt conv and damper

[prb51]

Ok, in my other thread I was talking about changing the fan and someone asked why not just go with an electric.
I have a Hayden (but would need an elec therm) but the thin belt pulley for the crankshaft is not the dampered type simply a bolt on aluminum pulley.
Has anyone run their 4 banger without a dampered pulley gizmo? Would I be asking for trouble...it seems to me the unit hanging on the nose with the fan is pretty hefty as a counter balance element.
If I could go with the hayden I could mount it as a pusher on the rocored (no crank cut out) radiator and mount the oil cooler mocal behind and flush with the radiator (I think it'd fit).
What do ya'll think?

 

[TR3driver]

Has anyone run their 4 banger without a dampered pulley gizmo?

I've run mine that way for more years than I care to count. Also took off the fan extension, to make room for the Hayden behind the radiator.

The only problem I've had is that the big flat washer I used in place of the extension apparently bottomed out on the crank nose instead of clamping the pulley hub tightly. The hub worked back and forth on the crank nose enough to eventually (like after 10 years of daily driving) wear the joint out & ruin the key. So, I made up a custom washer (from a section of iron pipe cap) that fit over the crank nose; and used Loctite Circular Parts Mount (or whatever it's called these days) to fill in the gap (after replacing the hub). It's worked fine ever since.

Removed it once to install a Speedi-sleeve, and it came right off with a harmonic balancer puller.

...it seems to me the unit hanging on the nose with the fan is pretty hefty as a counter balance element.

Weight is not the issue, it's dampening. But from conversations with the kind of people who break cranks; I believe it's not a problem as long as you don't stay over 5000 rpm for very long. There is supposedly a bad harmonic near 5200 rpm that can snap the crank if it's not dampened.

If I could go with the hayden I could mount it as a pusher

Opinions vary, but personally, I believe that pusher fans upset the non-assisted airflow at speed. It's not a huge effect, but IMO it's real.

 

[Simon TR4a]

I have a 14 inch pusher fan in front of the radiator, and my oil cooler behind. I retained the original pulley/damper, and have not had problems over several years with this setup.
I would prefer the oil cooler in front of the rad, but the radiator shroud gets in the way of the oil lines unless they are extremely long, which doesn't look tidy.
Simon.

 

[prb51]

Thanks guys.
I checked the speedpro series (forgot I had it) "How to Improve the TR 2-4a" and he recommends retaining some kind of damper, aftermarket type specific or original.
The author mentioned that the harmonics start at 4200 and again at 6200 and will transfer somewhere i.e. the tranny etc.
I'll keep the 'snout' and maybe try the pusher route and cooler behind rad.
Actually the car does well in the 110 degree heat when moving but those traffic stops need the cooler help.

 

[Deleted member 451]

When I converted my TR3 to R&P steering 5 years ago I had to go to an electric fan to clear the rack. I had a spacer washer and a short bolt that replaced the fan and extention. Ran it that way for 4 years befor I changed to the Moss Thin Belt kit. My normal shift point is around 4000-4500 RPM. I never had any problems. I went to the thin belt because it was hard to change the thick belt with the steering rack in place, and it looks better. I drive mostly in town so cooling is an issue. I run pusher and a puller fans connected to a 190 switch. The fans never come on while the car is moving or facing the sea breeze (east). They work great when needed, if the temp is less than 75 they never come on.