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TR2/3/3A tr3 slave cylinder quality

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sp53

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Hi tr3 people I recently purchased a new slave cylinder for a tr3 from one of the smaller independent suppliers for 56.00 dollars. The add said it was a Girling, but when I received the part it had no writing or embossing on the part. The part came in a baggy. Does anybody know if the Moss stuff is the same? I saw at car show once a Lucas line of hydraulic cylinders for the British car enthusiast. They said they were out of Portland, Oregon, but I cannot find them. Anyways, I hate putting questionable parts on the car. So does anyone have any information on the quality of brake or clutch hydraulic cylinders?

George
 
I have a new slave that I got through Vicky Brit or Moss or one of those places, and it has worked fine.
 
I recall hearing that the Girling cylinders are now made in Asia and do not say "Girling". As for Lucas as a brand, in the old days at least, Lucas owned Girling.
 
I'm pretty sure the Oregon Company you mention is British Parts Northwest.
I've not ordered from them but note the prices are normally slightly higher than the big 3.
They have and 800 number on their website. I have not heard anything but positive comments, but there were only a couple of times I remember talking about them.
I'm a 4a guy so I'm not sure this tidbit would apply but most vendors are selling 7/8 " bore and I believe, and somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but the original slave was a 1" bore.
 
Hi tr3 people I put on the after market 7/8 slave cylinder and corrected the problem. In the process I discover a company in England who supply it looks original stuff:

Dear Sir

Thank you for your enquiry.

We can supply the following new clutch slave cylinders from stock;

Early TR3 models, Lockheed cylinder ( iron ) ÂŁ54.50

Later TR3 models, Girling cylinder ( aluminium ) ÂŁ48.00

All prices are + VAT ( UK/EU only )

We accept all major credit cards and ship worldwide daily.

Kind regards

Paul H.Hunt
POWERTRACK LTD

I personally have not seen their products so? But anyways, I thought I would pass it on.
The 7/8 after market cylinder is working well and even seems to have a little stiffer feel than the old 1 inch. It is kinda interesting because it takes a little more pressure to push in, but I feel that I experience a more accurate disengagement of the clutch. But maybe it is all in my head. Anyways, my base line is probably skewed because I am so familiar driving with the old- old 1 inch cylinder. That thing had been rebuilt probably 5 times. In addition, this fixed my freeway weak clutch pedal problem I post a while back.

George.
 
Hi Dave you are very correct about the amount of power required to push a 7/8 slave cylinder down, it is less fun to drive, or maybe I just like it easy. I prefer the one inch slave cylinder better. Do you have any tips on rebuilding an old one inch? I thought I would pick through my old stuff find the best bore and polish it with some crocus cloth. Use a good brand name kit and tell me do you use any of that red grease in the kits as a pre- lube on the bore itself?

George
 
Hi George,
Provided that there is no lost motion in the parts, the one inch cylinder should provide enough travel. With a smooth bore & a good kit, it should be ok.

The "Red" grease should only be used on the external rubber parts. The cover boot is sometimes packed with this to prevent water from entering the outer parts. Use clean brakefluid to lube the inner parts.
D
 
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