• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

TR2/3/3A TR3 seat rebuild

  • Thread starter Deleted member 451
  • Start date
D

Deleted member 451

Guest
Guest
Offline
While on a drive recently on of the springs in the passenger side of my TR3 broke and poked my wife where the sun don’t shine. After kidding my 90 pound wife about her fat butt, I was ordered to have it fixed.
At $200 a side for new springs, there has to be a better (cheaper) way to rebuild the seats.
Has anyone replaced the springs with modern foam? I was thinking some stiff foam cut to the shape of the spring sitting on a plywood base cut to the same size as the spring bottom should work.
Any Thoughts?
 
Bill,
I had the same thing happen to me during a rally. I couldn't stop for hours and I didn't realise what the pain was until I stopped later in the day.
I just turned the seat over and bent the offending spring down and it has remained that way ever since with no more injuries!
I would have thought that foam would be OK so long as you get some that is reasonably firm to give lateral support, otherwise the whole seat may wobble like a jelly!
Nick
 
Lots of restorers use a modern foam kit to replace the springs, padding and horsehair that's in an original seat.

Talk to an experienced auto trim shop that KNOWS British cars... I think Mark Macy in Ohio could help you @Macy's Garage. There are lots of others, too.

Personally, I like the feeling of the old style seats. That's why I like OLD cars that DRIVE like they are old...but I've been told that a seat with modern foam is more comfortable. Comfort in a sidescreen TR? Hogwash! The next thing you know people will be putting in radios and heaters!
 
I converted my 3A seats to foam last winter. I used two layers of high density 5-1/2" uphostery foam (blue-green stuff) cut and shaped to fit. Plywood bottom from Baltic birch. Ample cotton batting was used to round the edges of the foam, both around the bottom cushions and also on top of the seat backs.

I can't take credit for the foam cutting because I purchased it pre-cut for my seat bottoms. I paid $100 + shipping for two seats including foam for the seat backs and MDF seat bottoms which I replaced with the ply.

I did all the upholstery install myself (a perfectionist)using Moss covers and I really think they came out perfectly. I also added seat heaters, a good thing in Maine in the autumn with the top down.

I'll search for the pics if you're interested. They are nice and comfy even after an hour and don't bounce you around over the bumps.
 
I went with foam seat bottoms when I redid my TR3A interior about 7 years ago. I like that they sit higher than the (tired) springs used to do.

In the 1990 re-do I actually made replacement springs, tempering them on the gas stove. Better than nothing but not as fine a ride as the foam.

The foam work was done by a local shop, I added that loop of nylon webbing you can just see at the bottom front edge to make it easy to yank the seat bottom up & out.

seats.JPG
 
My TR3A had badly sagging seats after 80,000 miles from new. Then during my restoration from 1987 to 1990, I found similar helical springs at a local re-upholsterer and spiraled these new springs into the bottom around all the broken ones that were there. Then I bent over the bottom (outer) end so they would stay in place. I reused the original jute wadding. I didn't want to switch to foam because I felt that the seats would feel different. I have driven 94,000 miles with these same seats since 1990 and they are still like new. They don't sag and are still really comfortable - even when driving 600 miles a day on freeways. I have driven a TR3A with foam padding and the seat was so high and firm, I didn't like it. And getting my leg under the steering wheel when I was getting in was a pain, because the foam padding was so firm and the cushion so high.
 
As Don said, weaving a new or unbroken old spring isn't too difficult. You don't have to worry about seating height and you maintain the original feel of the seat(minus the stabbing sensation).
I recently sat in a foam seat and didn't care for the feel or the lack of leg room with the steering wheel. Granted, this is one seat, but the time it would take to get the feel you are looking for could be lengthy.
 
DougF said:
I recently sat in a foam seat and didn't care for the feel or the lack of leg room with the steering wheel.

With foam, you can vary the seat height by making it a little thinner in height before you put the covers on. Also for a softer seat, use use a less dense foam.

It IS different than springs though and it takes a few miles for the foam to settle in. One thing I did was to cut a couple of 1-1/4" air escape holes in the plywood seat bottom, then face off the hole with felt inside to keep the foam clean. Mine settle nicely and come back to shape easily too. I'm just 5'10" so legroom a plenty in a TR3.

But I really have to say that I don't miss the buggy ride bounce that the springs had although it was fun - like a buggy ride! It reminded me of the old school buses with the single seat across the back. We would bounce and laugh ... fun!

My springs had been replaced at some point in their life and each coil was individually wrapped in cotton.
 
Geo,those seats are beautiful. OK now for cheap, easy and fast. Were talkin car seats that is. Get some old foam pop corn packing and spray glue. Turn your seats upside down,stuff the pop corn in,a little at a time,spray with glue,stuff some more,poke it in with a wood dowel,more spray,etc.cut a piece of heavy cloth the size of the bottom and glue it on over the spring bottom.Not great, but worked. Did this to my driver clunker cause I was afraid if I removed the leather it would tear apart. I also do dentistry, part time.
 
BOXoROCKS said:
...I also do dentistry, part time.

Using a pair of channel-locks & JB Weld?

Someday some poor slob is going to try to restore that 'driver clunker' and will have a few words to say about you when he gets to those seats!
 
Geo,...ummmm. there were virtualy NO springs.

They were leather covered taco shells

No poor slob will ever restore that car. He will be a fairly well to do slob.

Geo, I probably wont sell it anyway, I let them go to seed.
 
I keep telling my wife each time I purchase a new one I'll sell one.....but in all honesty the next person to restore any of mine will be the archeologist that digs them up!
 
Back
Top