TR2/3/3A TR3 Repair panels

[Tr3aguy]

OK,
When it comes to replacement panels is there a recommended gauge of metal that is best? I bought some panels from the big three and will also need to make some smaller fill ins.

Also Any tips on welding new metal to old metal would be greatly appreciated. Butt weld, lap weld what works best?

 

[TomMull]

The original panels are mostly 18 ga. In my area this is only available at a steel yard and in 4ft by 8ft sheets, but cheap if you buy it that way. I usually need two or three tries for each panel I make so this works well for me. Also leave lots of scraps for practice welds.
As for welding old metal to new, the flange method (an alternate method I use is to weld a backer piece to the work instead of the flange) works well on flat pieces, at least when you can't see the other side. My preferred method is butt weld with oxy/ acetylene where I can beat out the warpage from heat, and MIG where I can't. Any of the old metal will be more difficult to weld than new but it can be done if you have any kind of good metal there.
Other than that, practice with some old panels and if you use a MIG or TIG, and you can afford it, get an auto-dark helmet.
Tom

 

[Tr3aguy]

Thanks Tom.....I appreciate the information....

I picked up a mig, I have to play with it for a while...

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Hi JP,

Let the fun begin.

Start by doing lots of practice on some scrap.

Fortunately, I have a parts car where I can cut pieces of metal off to do some patches. Unfortunatley, some of the areas that I really need (like the rear apron) are unusable. As mentioned, 18 guage will do the trick for most pieces.

For most of my welding I have been doing butt joints. You might want to invest in a copper paddle to use as a heat sink behind where you are welding. Helps to prevent some burn through and warpage I find. You can make a simple heat sink by using some copper plumbing fittings, cutting them in half and pounding them flat.

Not sure how many hours I have been welding now...still learning and burning holes now and again but getting better.

Good luck with your project.

Look forward to some pics.

Cheers,
David

 

[AEW]

Does anybody have any thoughts on glue? I bought some, pretty expensive, panel adhesive thinking it would make fender rust patches easy. It is a two part material that mixes as it is applied. I've been afraid to try it, mess up, and waste a $45 tube of glue.

 

[GerryL]

I have never used glue but have considered it. The nice thing that it provides a watertight seal. It will require you to use a flanging tool to create a lip for the patch. You can buy different hardeners with varying drying times which allows you to manuver the pannel in accordance to the time that may be required. The following link has a picture showing the use of glue for a TR3 fender patch. https://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/u...l_an#Post675829

Gerry

 

[AEW]

thanks Gerry, that seems encouraging. I wish the size of the flange/overlap had been part of the pictures. I don't want to get a stress crack along the joint after all the paint is done. I suppose too big is better than too small

 

[GerryL]

You can either obtain a pnuematic or manual puncher/flanger. It appears that they either create a 3/16 or 7/32 wide flange.

 

[AEW]

I've got one of the air tools that produces a flange, but actually I think it's too narrow. I also have one of the Eastwood bead roller tools and with a little shimming effort I can put a 'step' in the new metal part. On the patches I made so far I cut the flange back to about an inch of overlap. These have been welded patches (no glue so far) to the floor/trunk panels. I think there is a down side to my theory though in that I may be creating a new place for rust to start. I use seam sealer after cleaning up the welds of course, but I still think there is that pocket...