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TR2/3/3A TR3 Pipe, Water Pump Housing, Mounts Where?

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

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The connection to water pump pipe, assembly, item AU22, Stanpart #201947, plate AU opposite pg 146, in the Stanparts catalog mounts to what, besides the water pump? It has a tab about in the middle that hangs down close to the coil mounting bracket. Figured that would be where it should go. The hole in the tab is about an inch to the rear of the rear most coil bracket mounting hole. Can't go forward because it hits the interior of the housing. The one I bought, a SS unit from TRF is an exact copy of the original. So whats up?

Any and all ideas greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Tinkerman
 
That's where it goes. It attaches to the block using the rear screw that mounts the coil. Either the tab is mounted in the wrong place, or the tube is too long. Put the tube in place and see where the bend winds up. It should wind up just SLIGHTLY aft of the rear spark plug. If it winds up an inch back, then just use a tubing cutter to shorten the tube.

Edit: I just see where you said it's an exact copy of the original...now I'm confused. Are you sure the lengths and placement of the bracket are exact to the original?? Did you match them up side by side??
 
Here's a photo of mine in case a pic will help determine what is too long or misplaced:


Heater%20Tube.JPG
 
GEO --- the only thing we can see clearly in that pic is the fuel line and capillary tube!! :laugh:

Edit: Here's a better pic...
 

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The photo from Art is correct. But you might have to bend and jog into that vertical tab about half way up from where it is secured by the rear coil bolt so it will clear the top back of the coil.
 
Thank You, thank you. The fitting in the pump housing needs just a tad of work and it should slip in there just fine.

I get frustrated with being ready to assemble and then finding out that it isn't quite ready to go. Your input helps me along the way.

Gotta love the forum, Tinkerman
 
NOW, I find that it is not the duplicate that I thought it was! The mounting tang is 1 1/4" longer than the original and the diameter of the pipe is larger by .0005. ARRRRGGGGHHHHH

So how do I cut and drill stainless?

Tinkerman the frustrated!
 
Are you talking about cutting and drilling the mounting bracket welded to the pipe?? Just use a hacksaw and drill like it was regular steel. If you need to cut the length of the tube, a tubing cutter is best, although you could use a hacksaw. Will the extra half a thousands prevent you from putting on the compression fitting?? If not, don't worry about it.
 
:iagree:
 
Thanks, I can handle the oversize on the diameter, just have never cut or drilled SS.

Guess that gives me a little project for tomorrow.

Tinkerman
 
Drill it slowly (drill speed) so that you don't overheat the bit.
 
And keep applying a lubricant or cutting oil to the tip of the bit.
 
I got the same part from TRF. The mounting tab needed bending and a new hole, in order to make it fit the car. I seem to recall that I massaged the bends in the pipe too. All-in-all, about 12 - 15 minutes of work. The stainless they use for these is not particularly hard steel. It works easily.
 
Machineing stainless isn't too bad, but it requires some oddball settings on your machine.
Most stainless work hardens, which is why your stainless exhaust needs twice as many supports as the mild steel one.
To machine stainless you have run your speed way down, and your feed way up, so your cutting edge stays in front of the work hardened edge, once your bit starts to squeek, your screwed.

I personally have found that a TiN coated step drill works best in thin stainless.
 
Had the same problem, had to cut and re-drill.
Machine SS all the time, it's tough material.

I don't think my tube was SS, think it is plated steel?
But, like everyone said, drill speed slower, faster feed, don't dwell, with cutting oil.
Drilling a small 1/8" pilot hole first always helps also.
Clamp it well!
Lyle
 
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