TR2/3/3A TR3 master cylinder replacement hints

[txtr3]

I'm getting ready to replace the clutch master cylinder on my 59 TR3. I had a mechanic replace the brake m/c recently, but I'm thinking I can handle this one myself.

I'm interested if anyone has any hints for this relative novice on what I'm getting into.

I know the basics of hydraulic bleeding (although I've never actually done it). And I've read on VTR and this forum the discussions about bench bleeding.

First question: Is there anything I need to do to the m/c before I actually bench bleed and install? Just put it all together, fill it up, and then bleed the system?

Next, I'll open the floor to debate.

A. Bleeder assistance: vacuum pump type? pressure-assist type (e.g. Easibleed)? special bleed screws (SpeedBleeder)?

B. Bench bleeding: what's it worth?

Any other comments welcome, too.

Cheers, /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Jiri

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[donbmw]

There is nothing special in repairing the master cylinder. Use air press to pop out the cyl. When you put the cyl back together fill it up with fluid before you reinstall it and hook the line to it. Fill up the resvoir and crack the line on the master cyl before you have a friend, wife or kid pump the pedal. This will just about bleed the lines before you start the bleeding.

Don

 

[Geo Hahn]

I'll agree with Don, I've tried some of the bleeding alternatives (not to be confused with 'Bleedin' alternatives') and seen most of the others at tech sessions -- I still think that having a spouse or friend pump the pedal is the quickest, simplest and easiest to control.

Depending on who helps, a couple of cold beers or renting a Jane Austen flick are in order when the job's done.

 

[sammyb]

Replacing the MC is a piece of cake. I was able to do it, and I'm just barely functional with tools. I also used the standard bleeding technique.