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TR2/3/3A TR3 headlights
- Thread starter TFB
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The typical (H)6024 is a sealed-beam halogen replacement for the old tungsten-filament 6012 and should draw about the same current while putting out rather brighter light.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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Do you have the original US-spec lamps now? If so, then a regular 6014 sealed beam bulb will work fine. It draws slightly more power than the stock 6012 (which are NLA AFAIK) but the stock wiring will handle the current.
You could also go for an H4 conversion. I don't know a NAPA number for the conversion, but lots of folks sell them. Once you have the conversion, then if one burns out you only have to replace the inner H4 (aka 9004) bulb, which is readily available at any auto parts store. The lowest power (and most common) 55/60 H4 bulbs draw just a little bit more power than the 6014, but again the stock wiring will handle it with ease.
You could also go for an H4 conversion. I don't know a NAPA number for the conversion, but lots of folks sell them. Once you have the conversion, then if one burns out you only have to replace the inner H4 (aka 9004) bulb, which is readily available at any auto parts store. The lowest power (and most common) 55/60 H4 bulbs draw just a little bit more power than the 6014, but again the stock wiring will handle it with ease.
Thanks Andy and Randall.I see there are lots of the h4 conversions on ebay with a wide price range and varied lenses.Now to make a decision.Thanks again,Tom
Moseso
Jedi Knight
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If you haven't already made that decision, check out these: https://www.busdepot.com/0301600118
Very good H4 lamps at a REAL good price. NFI. I just like these guys from my days as a VW bus guy.
They must have bought a BUNCH of these. They've had this "clearance" price on 'em for a couple of years.
Very good H4 lamps at a REAL good price. NFI. I just like these guys from my days as a VW bus guy.
They must have bought a BUNCH of these. They've had this "clearance" price on 'em for a couple of years.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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It's been longer than that, I bought a pair in 1998! Nothing wrong with them, but they have flat faces (which looks a little odd to me) and I didn't really like the light pattern as well as I did the ones I had before. So this time around, I'm going to try the convex face conversions from TRF. Haven't fired them up yet, but they look nice 
I'd have to double-check, but ISTR the ones from Bus Depot do not have either SAE or "E codes" on them, meaning they aren't approved for highway use in the USA or Europe.
I'd have to double-check, but ISTR the ones from Bus Depot do not have either SAE or "E codes" on them, meaning they aren't approved for highway use in the USA or Europe.
It's been longer than that, I bought a pair in 1998! Nothing wrong with them, but they have flat faces (which looks a little odd to me) and I didn't really like the light pattern as well as I did the ones I had before. So this time around, I'm going to try the convex face conversions from TRF. Haven't fired them up yet, but they look nice
I'd have to double-check, but ISTR the ones from Bus Depot do not have either SAE or "E codes" on them, meaning they aren't approved for highway use in the USA or Europe.
I wound up getting 6024 Wagner at Napa for under 11 bucks each.They had them on the self in the store so I guess replacements are no problem.They look close to the old ones except for the little "Halogen "in the middle of the lense.Thanks Tom
Moseso
Jedi Knight
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The ones from Bus Depot are actually motorcycle headlamps, which do differ a teeny bit from the auto version with all the good codes on 'em.
They work swell. I believe the advice is, just don't blind a cop.
Here's their disclaimer from their page:
Disclaimer: Although H4 headlights are commonplace on cars and trucks in Europe and Canada, when sold in the U.S. they must be designated as "for motorcycle or offroad use only" because the U.S. DOT does not recognize H4's for car use. Unlike most H4's, these Bosch's are DOT approved and labeled, but the approval mark applies to motorcycles. Compliance with local laws is the buyer's responsibility.
They work swell. I believe the advice is, just don't blind a cop.
Here's their disclaimer from their page:
Disclaimer: Although H4 headlights are commonplace on cars and trucks in Europe and Canada, when sold in the U.S. they must be designated as "for motorcycle or offroad use only" because the U.S. DOT does not recognize H4's for car use. Unlike most H4's, these Bosch's are DOT approved and labeled, but the approval mark applies to motorcycles. Compliance with local laws is the buyer's responsibility.
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What about a TR6? Are brighter headlights available? If anything, mine are actually better than my '02 Accord but still not as good as halogen bulbs. Will they fit without a lot of fiddling? At (almost) 80, my eyes are not quite as good as they were but as they say in Florida, I'm a D.A.N. - "drives at night" - a desirable catch.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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TR6 is exactly the same as TR3 in this area. Same bulbs, same options. All the options we've discussed should be simple "bolt in" changes; the bulbs and housings should all fit into the original buckets. And unless you go overboard on the power (H4 bulbs are available in multiple power ratings), the stock wiring should be able to handle the extra current.
The only exception that I've seen is that some of the cheap "no name" H4 conversions are too thin at the edges, and the clamp ring won't grab them securely. I used some O-ring cord to fill the gap. But the ones from Bus Depot (which are made by Bosch) fit perfectly without the cord.
Of course, the more voltage you can deliver to the bulbs, the brighter they will be. So there is still something to be said, IMO, for using relays and routing power directly to the bulbs. But it certainly is not necessary, and as long as your switches and wiring are all in good shape, the difference is pretty small.
The only exception that I've seen is that some of the cheap "no name" H4 conversions are too thin at the edges, and the clamp ring won't grab them securely. I used some O-ring cord to fill the gap. But the ones from Bus Depot (which are made by Bosch) fit perfectly without the cord.
Of course, the more voltage you can deliver to the bulbs, the brighter they will be. So there is still something to be said, IMO, for using relays and routing power directly to the bulbs. But it certainly is not necessary, and as long as your switches and wiring are all in good shape, the difference is pretty small.
Thanks, Randall. I may just look into those lights.
One more thing. Who ever got the idea to put plastic covers over the headlights? My Accord left side one is completely fogged over. I got one of those kits and it only made the problem worse. I hear the replacement covers are expensive.
One more thing. Who ever got the idea to put plastic covers over the headlights? My Accord left side one is completely fogged over. I got one of those kits and it only made the problem worse. I hear the replacement covers are expensive.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I think it was part of the general drive to reduce fuel consumption and emissions. Blending the headlight surface into the body lines reduces wind resistance. At least I believe that was the argument that the auto makers used when they finally persuaded the US DOT to drop their requirements for standardized headlights. Plus of course, plastic is a lot cheaper to make than glass.
The kit I used on my Buick last March actually worked quite well. I don't know how long the effect will last, but they look good so far and the improvement on dark roads was quite noticeable. I don't have the original covers though, I replaced the complete assemblies about 10 years ago with ones I got from eBay. Probably wouldn't have worked as well if I still had the 18 year old originals.
Kit was by Rain-X, and included 3 stages of wet "micro" sanding plus 2 or 3 stages of chemical treatment. I noticed that some of the other kits had a lot fewer stages, which I'm guessing can't work as well.
HerronScott
Darth Vader
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I had good luck with the 3M kit on our old 96 Ford Contour (the winter car). It too had several stages from course to finer.
Scott
Scott