TR2/3/3A TR3 Gear Reduction Starter

[Mkutz]

Ok, so I have a new gear reduction starter going back into the TR3, after a very lengthy frame off. Two Questions:

1. Do I need to use the shim that was found on original starter;

2. Do I wire this thing any different than the original?

 

[martx-5]

I didn't have a shim onmy original starter, so I can't answer that question.

As far as wiring up the gear reduction starter, that all depends on if you're going to use the original starter relay on the firewall. If you are, then you need a 10 gauge jumper wire down at the starter that goes from the fat terminal (that comes from the battery) to the small terminal. If you are eliminating the original starter relay, then just run the small wire that came from the starter switch on the dash down to the small terminal on the gear reduction starter.

On the picture, you can see the jumper wire...it's the white one. I kept the original starter relay on the firewall.

 

[BobbyD]

Art.....Okkkkk....I see custom headers, an O2 sensor and a 4 prong plug that doesn't appear to be connected. So....what mods are you running there?

 

[martx-5]

Art.....Okkkkk....I see custom headers, an O2 sensor and a 4 prong plug that doesn't appear to be connected. So....what mods are you running there?

The header is from Moss, it's not custom. Although it did take some twisting and bending to get it to fit. The four prong plug is for the O2 sensor. It's heated. The other mods are 87mm piston & liners. Head shaved 0.085". Cam ground by Ken Gillanders...282 deg duration, .431 lift. And all the other stuff that goes with the cam. Followers, valve springs, aluminum keepers, shorter push rods, APR head studs, geez, Ken sold me alot of stuff.

Then there's the OTHER stuff. The Toyota trans and brake calipers. The rack & pinion steering, the Delco alternator, the electric fan...I think I'm getting ill thinking of all this stuff. Good thing I just throw all the receipts in a box not to be looked at again. :laugh:

 

[vivdownunder]

Art,

I have seen two reduction starters where backplate fixing bolts have loosened, and one has fallen out inside the bell housing, causing the odd bit of chaos.

Fortunately neither jammed, but it's awkward to pry this bolt out from around the ring gear while away from a home garage.

Worth it to locktite these bolts before fitting the new starter.

Regards,

Viv.

 

[TR3driver]

Most likely, the shim will not be needed. Since the gear-drive is a pre-engaged design, the distance to the flywheel is less critical. But if you want to, you can try to measure and compare the distance from the mounting surface to the ring gear teeth, and to the pinion teeth. The important bit is that they not drag when the pinion is not extended.

For wiring, I would definitely recommend keeping the original solenoid (or buying a replacement if you don't have an original). The solenoid on the starter both draws more current, and delivers more inductive kickback than the original solenoid; which will shorten the life of the (expensive) dash pushbutton. The pushbutton on the starter is also really handy when troubleshooting, adjusting valves, etc.

But since my original solenoid had already lost part of it's smoke, I wired so it only has to carry current for the new solenoid. I moved the existing starter wire to the other solenoid terminal (so it's hot all the time) and ran a new wire from the load side of the original solenoid to the terminal for the new solenoid.