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Does anyone have a picture of their front suspension taken apart and laid out ready for assembly? I've got the TRF kit but think I may have some pieces missing.Also... is the washer with the four grooves cut into it referred to as the thrust washer and the washer that is "top hat-like" the serrated washer? Karl
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TR2/3/3A TR3 front suspension blow up pic?
- Thread starter karls59tr
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Thanks for the info guys. Most helpfull. The nylon bush on the left front inner wishbone arm is worn thru so there was metal to metal contact and the hole worn to a somewhat oval shape.Would a new bush remedy this situation or should I pull a wishbone off a spare frame I have to be on the safe side? The spare frame I have is jammed in my overcrowded garage with the right side facing up.From the Moss diagram it seems I should be able to use the right hand rear wishbone as a replacement. Is this correct. Karl
Yes there are right and left hand wishbones. As far as replacing the wishbone that would depend on how bad the egg shape is. If it is just a little bit, you will probably be alright. Having said that, I usually use all my OCD skills and gather all my parts together and pick the cream of the crop.
TR4
Jedi Knight
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My lower arms had egg shaped holes when I rebuilt my front end. My car shakes a little now when I drive which makes me wonder if I should have filled the egg shape of the holes with weld material and then reamed them to make them almost like new.
BTW, I have aquired another set of arms that are in much better shape so I can change out the bad ones. Just curious what others think about my welding idea.
BTW, I have aquired another set of arms that are in much better shape so I can change out the bad ones. Just curious what others think about my welding idea.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
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I would definitely change the arm if the inner hole is visibly ovaled. Not only will it wear the new nylon bushing quickly, but it also allows the suspension to move fore and aft, which spoils the alignment and to some extent, the handling.
The arms are cast iron, which makes welding to them tricky. I'm no welder, but as I understand it, you need to heat the entire arm then make the weld while it's still quite hot. A special rod (or wire) is required as well.
Really bad place to have something break, IMO. Plus of course you need to be careful to keep the hole in the same relative spot, or it will upset the camber and castor that have no adjustment on the TR3. If you build up one side with weld and then stuff a reamer in the hole, it's going to move the hole. But maybe I'm just paranoid.
The left front arm is the same as the right rear one, so that should be OK. But if there is any doubt as to it's condition, I would change the brass bushing in the outer end as well. They seem to wear pretty badly and it's not really noticeable unless you go looking for it.
The arms are cast iron, which makes welding to them tricky. I'm no welder, but as I understand it, you need to heat the entire arm then make the weld while it's still quite hot. A special rod (or wire) is required as well.
Really bad place to have something break, IMO. Plus of course you need to be careful to keep the hole in the same relative spot, or it will upset the camber and castor that have no adjustment on the TR3. If you build up one side with weld and then stuff a reamer in the hole, it's going to move the hole. But maybe I'm just paranoid.
The left front arm is the same as the right rear one, so that should be OK. But if there is any doubt as to it's condition, I would change the brass bushing in the outer end as well. They seem to wear pretty badly and it's not really noticeable unless you go looking for it.