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TR2/3/3A TR3 Front Hubs/Wheel Bearings

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M

Mkutz

Jedi Hopeful
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Greetings All -- Got a TR3 front wheel bearing question.

I'm working on the front end of my TR3, replacing near about everything. Ordered two front wheel Timken bearings kits from TRF, and along with the bearings came some new bearing races. My question is this. Does it follow logic that a flat bladed screwdriver should be inserted the two notches behind each of the races, as installed in the hub, then tapped out with a hammer? How much force is required to tap them out, and what is the recommended way to reinstall? Do they need to be pressed in, or can they be tapped back in using the same principle? Thanks!
 
M:
Never changed races on a TR3 but generally races are fitted up by pushing with your hand. The area where the race rests must be clean especially where the race meets the stop. If the area is clean, you don't have to worry about everything stacking up because when you torque the wheel bearing, it will slide everything up to the right places (if they are clean). When replacing new bearings I all ways check the bearings to see that they are maintaining the correct tolerance/torque after a brief run-in. All ways change the race when you put on a new wheel bearing and vice versa.
 
That is how I recently replaced the races on my TR6. Tapped them out with a screw driver using the groove. Cleaned the surfaces and then tapped new races in using the old race as a hitting surface.
 
Jack up the front end after driving about 100 or 200 miles and try to wobble each of the front wheels sideways back and forth. If you find some slack or looseness, tighten the nut on the end of the shaft as per the manual. It means that while they may have been tight when you changed the bearings, they were not fully seated againtst the end stop and now they are. This is causing the slop. Once tightened the second time, they should be good for 50,000 miles or more.
 
Stop by Sears or a local parts store and buy a small set of brass drifts.You should be able to get a set of 3 different sized ones for under $20. Then use them instead of the screwdriver to tap out the old races. The brass will not mar any of the surfaces inside the hub, or damage the parts your tapping.
Then, the new race should require the same amount of tapping to "seat" it back in the hub. It should not drop in by hand. that is too loose.
I take the old race and set it over top of the new race to use as a surface to tap on (tapping around in circles)to seat the new race. That ensures that your not distorting the new race, or marring the edge..
You'll know the race is seated when you hear the tone of the hammer blows change a little. They go from a dull thud to a clearer metallic ring.
Then you can use the brass drift to tap the old race back out if it got stuck by travelling part way back into the hub (they usually do) Just make sure you put the "sacrifical" race in with the thick side twards the new race (tha same way it was in the hub) so you have the edge to tap on to get it out.
 
Got it done, thanks to all that replied! Got the seats super clean, then tapped in the new races with the old. Worked like a charm, and I new I reached the end when the hub rang like a bell.

Thanks!
 
I love it when a plan comes togeather! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif
 
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