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TR2/3/3A TR3 engine front cover repair

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If it were mine, I would run a few passes with the TIG welder and blend it.
 
Unless I am missing something, I don't see what damage the scars are going to cause. They are inside the timing cover chain so they won't cause an oil leak. I would just ignore it.
 
If you do decide to go aluminum, I'd make sure there are no sharp edges on the end of the tensioner that can gouge the plate. If it chewed through that much steel...it'll make short work of an aluminum plate!

John
 
Mine wore into the cover and not the plate. If it is the plate, I'd be cautious with the tig, the plate needs to stay completely flat. It's fairy thick too and I think should tolerate a slight scar.
Tom
 
I have another steel plate, but it is warped about 1/8" where the mount must have been bumped. So that one is probably no good. I could MIG weld in small runs, but the scar is pretty big and getting it flat again would be hard to do. I wonder if putting a strip of metal over the scar area inside the timing cover would work? The chain runs a bit above the plate so the spring would still square up on the links (I think).
 
The very first repair on my 3 after buying it in the spring of '68 was a broken tensioner. What I had not seen through all the oily grime (and I think neither had the previous owner) was that when the engine was revved about a half inch of tensioner would pop out of the thin rectangular hole it neatly punched through the top of the timing chain cover. Like the car was sticking it's tongue out. Would have made a great youtube segment.
Am in agreement with those who say don't sweat it. Check the cover, could be the surface the tensioner rests against is just slightly non parallel letting it slide back towards the plate. Lotsa variations in all those bits.
 
Thanks all round for the comments. I think that after I contact the folks Randall linked, tomorrow I'll need to decide if the most popular opinion (ignore it) will be OK or if I need to suck up the cost of an aluminum plate. But it won't ever be a race engine.

As an added thought... no one said anything about the alignment of the post the tension spring pivots on. Until Tom M and Tom L pointed out that it could have worn the other way I presumed it was not possible.
 
Mine had that too and my machinist heli-arc'd the gouge until it was filled in. Probably could have left it alone and been just fine though.
 
Welded up mine also and then ground it flat. I like iron over aluminum because of the molecule structure. Aluminum is like particle board and iron is like plywood.
 
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