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TR2/3/3A TR3 Door Hinge Problem

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GerryL

Jedi Hopeful
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I am currently attempting to remove the lower hinge and have been unable to remove the last screw holding the bottom hinge. I have removed the upper hinge screws using PB Blaster penetrating oil and an impact screwdriver. The impact scredriver treatment resulted in the head of one screw breaking in half. I then used a drill to remove most of the tapered portion of the screw. I then used a punch from the drivers side and broke one of the spot welds. Using vise grips from the other side, I was able to remove the captive nut. The last remainning screw will not release. Should I use an torch to heat the screw or should I drill and drive it out as I did previously? The downside of drilling is that it damaged the tapered opening in the hinge. The A pillar is in good coacetylenendition.
I plan on using these captued nuts from McMasrwe-CARR item # 90955A113 to replace the factory ones. Would this be the best approach?
 
I take it that the wing is off and you have some access to the cage nuts...A small acetylene tip will let you heat the nut through the gaps in the corners of the cage,warm it up until it is cherry red and the screw will come right out.
MD(mad dog)
 
Hi Gerry,

I recently went thru the same motions on my TR.

Yes; Heat that sucker up & It should just come out but if not; Re-Heat and use the Impact Screwdriver. It`ll come out then for sure.

As for the cage nuts; I would highly recommend "Macys Garage". He has / makes cage nuts that will "NOT" allow the nut the spin in the cage; "EVER"!

Check it out; Its worth a few pennies more!

Have Fun,

Russ
 
If you drill out the flat head screw, use a drill that is 1/4" diameter and you won't cut into the sloped angle of the countersink cone. With the fender off, you can grab the protruding 1/4" length with your Vice Grips up under where the fender was and take out the shank of the bolt going towards the front of the car.

The captive boxes behind the "A" posts are very tightly confined and it would not be advisable to remove the captive boxes and change them for MC types.

I would run a tap through the ones you have in there now and use a silver type lube in the threads and they'll be easily removable in 20 or 25 years from now. Keep it simple. How many tines will you be driving in the rain and slushy salty snow during the next 20 - 25 years ? And how often will you need to remove the doors and hinges during that period in the near or long-term future ?
 
The McMaster caged nuts are the same as those supplied by Macys. McMaster sells them in packages of 10 for $6.68.
 
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