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TR2/3/3A TR3 door gap

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TexasKnucklehead

Jedi Knight
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I finally stripped the 'original' drivers door and noticed it had been repaired. There was a large dent near the top of the front fender that was filled with bondo. The rear of the door (above the latch) had been ground down (to make it less long) past the folded over metal of the skin (so the edge looks like 3 edges of steel). Also, when I got the car, the drivers side door latch was attached to the door with some self tapping screws because the threaded backing plate was missing and that area is torn up a bit.

No problem, I have another door. After stripping it and adding the hardware, it doesn't fit in the opening. It's 1/8" longer than the 'original'. The latch digs into the B post around the striker (striker is not installed). Also the skin has a little 'pop' to it around the handle. I can 'pop' it in, or out and it will stay where ever it was last 'popped'. (The other door had so much bondo on it, nothing would pop.) Is that normal?

Since I'm going to be installing new outer rockers and dog legs, can I just move the B post back a little to provide enough clearance for the 'new' door to fit?
 

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Well what I think is it has slumped in the center. I have a bunch of rusted out TR3s and my opinion is that without the stiff sills in place the door gap is too narrow at the top. What I think you need before moving the "B" post is to get some measurements from a car that is in better shape and around the same TS commission number as yours (thinking about stamping dies for that part). With the door in the photo you must be up around 70K ?
 
AEW said:
Well what I think is it has slumped in the center. I have a bunch of rusted out TR3s and my opinion is that without the stiff sills in place the door gap is too narrow at the top. What I think you need before moving the "B" post is to get some measurements from a car that is in better shape and around the same TS commission number as yours (thinking about stamping dies for that part). With the door in the photo you must be up around 70K ?
Click to expand...

Ditto that. I'd start with a new inner sill (actually easier than the dogleg in my opinion) then with a good door. Straight doors are fairly easy to find. Tom
 
It seems the gap is missing at the top as well as at the bottom. The body had TS27xxx on it when I got it, but appears to be a 1959. It certainly is below 70k as the removed door and the replacement pictured have wood inside the top.

Wouldn't I need to know exactly where the 'B' post is located prior to installing a new inner sill? I'm thinking the incorrect gap (at the top) is being held there by my support bracing, since the body is still off the frame. I tried lifting the body by the cross braces, but can see no flexing of the door gap.

Maybe I'll beg TR4nut to let me come over and hang my doors on his slightly newer shell.
 
Tex it is too early to tell and I am not sure about the door sizes, but I would look under the car at the shim pads for the cab to make sure they are there. What is commonly done is the car is set higher in the center with shims and if you look at the back section by the rear bumper there is a body tub bolt. What you do is take that bolt out and lift the center of the car high enough with shims to have an air gap there. Now when you close the air cap the B post will back some. You can do the same in the front, but it is a little more problematic because the front cowling is not supported very well and might tear by the A post.
Steve
 
Steve,
The body is completely off the frame. I have cross bracing between the A and B posts and it is sitting on a wooden frame. Also I have a brace across the middle, between the two cross braces, that I can lift the body from the center.
 
Oh ok, however, Tex I do not think you will get the doors right until you put the body back on the frame,so the body can be adjusted
Steve
 
I don't know how well it will work to get the gaps without the engine weight. Plus reattaching the body to the frame will give some adjustment with shims as mentioned. Is reskining the original door not an option?
 
Hey I just went through that!

Just for reference, I replaced my right door sill with the body off the frame. The door fit perfectly. When I mounted the body back on the completely fitted out frame, the front and rear gaps closed up a bit. Yours could very well do the opposite when the frame gets mounted. I guess I am saying I would not do to much heavy altering until the body is re-mounted.

The "oil canning you mention is common when a relatively flat panel gets "popped" in. The metal in that area gets stretched, ever so slighlty, and from then on it oil cans. The fix is to shrink the metal. Someone else may have another way, but here is how I fixed a spot on my door that oil canned:

_DSC6119-1.jpg


I made sure the spot that was canning was popped outward, and then just touched it with a torch for a second. This spot was so small I let it air cool. The heat allows the spot to be compressed by the surrounding metal, and the cooling shrinks it back to the original size. It does take a few minutes with a hammer and dolly to make it absolutely smooth. For really bad oil canning...like when your best friend in high school jumped on your hood...back in the day...you may have to heat the spot and then quench with a wet towel.

Can you send a pic of the front of your door so we can see what it's doing up there - around the scuttle?

John
 
OH, forgot...

The edge you have that was ground through can be easily edge welded as good as new.
 
I think I made some improvement today. I found the metal under the hinge was bent out/up a little, and since I was only using 2 screws, it was affecting things a lot. After straightening that up and properly mounting the front fender and hinges, I get a decent gap between the door and the fender. It's still a little tight at the back side ("B" pillar) and I think I need to try setting it back on the frame before I do anything to the sill or dog legs. I'd rather have the surprises now before any paint is on it.
 

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I'm thinking the door actually looks pretty good for a first fit! It looks like there is some room for it to move down and forward if you need more latch space.

John
 
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