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TR2/3/3A TR3 Dipper Switch

CJD

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Here is a picture of the dipper switch on my car. You'll see that the mount bracket looks backwards. I tried reversing the bracket, but with the location of the original holes on the kick panel, this is how it had to be mounted at the factory. When reversed, the bracket will not sit in the kick panel recess unless I drill new mount holes.

So, is this common or is this an anomally?

John

29544dde.jpg
 
Seems like we've debated this before, so at least you're not the only one with the problem. But all of mine have been the other way

DSCF0017.jpg


Something I never have quite understood : There are only two bolts and two holes. The holes stay the same distance apart, no matter which way the bracket is turned. So how is it that you cannot mount it the other way? The holes have to line up; does it hit something else?
 
I have an 'outey' (like Randall's pic) but have ownder if I could reverse to an 'inney' to gain some foot space. Might be more comfortable for my left foot and even let me more easily slip it behine the clutch pedal for a change of position on a long highway cruise.

Aside - On the TR4 I have a rubber cap over the switch to make it a dead pedal as that switch would often operate when I rested my foot there. My TR3 switch seems much stiffer so no cap needed.
 
CJD said:
Here is a picture of the dipper switch on my car. You'll see that the mount bracket looks backwards. I tried reversing the bracket, but with the location of the original holes on the kick panel, this is how it had to be mounted at the factory. When reversed, the bracket will not sit in the kick panel recess unless I drill new mount holes.

So, is this common or is this an anomally?

John

29544dde.jpg

John,

Mine, a fairly late 3A that I've owned since 1964, came from the factory as yours. It works nicely as is. Don't reverse it.
Tom
 
TR3driver said:
Something I never have quite understood : There are only two bolts and two holes. The holes stay the same distance apart, no matter which way the bracket is turned. So how is it that you cannot mount it the other way? The holes have to line up; does it hit something else?

It is not just the vertical spacing of the bolts, but also the for/aft size of the bracket. Your picture nicely demonstrates the problem...if I reverse my bracket, it will sit farther forward on the kick panel. It then interferes with the sloped section of the kick panel so it will not sit flat. It will mount that way, but it will angle outward and not be stable. To make it sit flat, I would have to drill new holes, slightly farther aft than the current (and only) holes on my car.

The fact that there are not more than one pair of Holes on the kick panel affirms that my bracket was mounted this way at the factory. It looks a bit odd, but functions fine. I didn't even think about it till I saw JP's pics and realized that other cars are different.

Tom,, I'm glad to see your's is exactly like mine! Mine is also a post 60k car.

Oh, just remembered...when I first tried to remount my switch, I actually tried to screw the switch to the other side of the bracket. It will not fit any way other than how it looks in my pic. The angled ribs of the bracket keep the screw holes on the switch from aligning with the holes in the bracket.

Just interesting...thanks for the replies!

John
 
Since there are two dimmer switches, an oval shaped mount on the switch for the pre-60k cars, and a round one for the post 60k cars, it's quite possible that the bracket is different. I know I ran into this when I put a post 60k body on my pre-60k chassis. I'm sorry, but I don't remember what the problem was, but I had to buy the early dimmer switch to resolve it, and it looks like the pic posted by Randall.
 
Well I just went out to the garage and switched my outey to an inney. This is a TS47xxx commission number.

The holes on the switch are off center so to do it right I will have to either drill new holes in the bracket or drill and tap new holes in the switch. Both are easy enough and don't bother me.

For now I have the switch in place by using one of the original holes and a screw/washer/nut arrangment for the other end. Solid enough for a test drive (when the car is back on the road) but just sitting in the seat (making motor noises) I like the additional length it gives for the left leg room. Not much difference but even an inch and a half helps.

CJD said:
...When reversed, the bracket will not sit in the kick panel recess unless I drill new mount holes.

I did not encountered any fouling with the sheet metal bend, but then this was going the other way from what John was trying.
 
CJD said:
if I reverse my bracket, it will sit farther forward on the kick panel. It then interferes with the sloped section of the kick panel so it will not sit flat.

Ah, thanks for the explanation. I'll have to look, but I think maybe my bracket is a slightly different shape than yours. I don't recall that flat surface that shows at the "front" of your bracket being at the "back" of mine. The SPC lists 3 different part numbers for LHD TR3s (unfortunately with no change points) but only two versions of switch (again with no change points). Possibly that indicates that there was no "clean" changeover.

FWIW, my photo above is of TS39781LO.

PS, of course they are different, you can see part of the difference in the two photos above. Yours has a reinforcing angle along the edge of the surface where the switch mounts, while mine clearly does not.
 
Here is mine John,

Same on both of mine.

P1040020.jpg


Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd
 
Mine from my 56 ... just installed this morning. So a different switch and bracket. Newer one designed to move switch back and closer to clutch it appears. Guess it doesn't matter so long as it works.

DipperSmall.jpg


Cheers, Mike
 
Mike - Your photo looks like mine in my 1958 TR3A. But my switch is aluminium in colour and you'll have to put the interior carpet in place first. See how mine looks. That black oval rubber piece on the red carpet in mine is the original one (now 54 years old) which I shipped to England to have it sewn on in the correct olace when they made my new interior in 1989.

BTW, the bracket and dimmer switch changed at TS 60000. It has a large round base when you look down there and the bracket is different. Sometimes the bracket get reversed during a full restoration.
 

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Thanks for the pic Don. Yes, I did know the switch goes over the carpet but for now I'm happy to figure out where everything goes. I'll be very glad when I get to the stage of installing the carpet. That rubber piece is a good idea. I don't think my carpet set has that. Cheers, Mike
 
mgedit said:
...That rubber piece is a good idea. I don't think my carpet set has that. Cheers, Mike

The carpet I recently got from Moss for the TR4 lacked that piece so I removed it from the old carpet and put it on the new. Worth doing for me as I often drive in hiking boots and would quickly have that area reduced to fuzzy bits.
 
The carpet kit that I got from TRF for my TR3 had that insert.
 
On my 58tr3 the switch and the bracket are the same as Randall’s, Mike’s, and Don’s and my 1961 looks the same as M. Pied Lourd. The problem I cannot understand is why the switch mounts the way it does on the 61. I have tried to flip the bracket and move the wires, but the system only goes the” one way “with the wires hanging over the bracket and the switch recessed into the bracket. The holes are off set on the bracket and the switch screws into the bracket recess at the face only one way. I just do not get it. It looks like poor engineering in an area that is not that difficult to do. The earlier switch mounts cleaner with no potential problem with pinching the wires when the switch is being used. The later switch just looks wrong and potentially unsafe the way the wires lap over. If anyone has a picture of a 60 or 61 that is original, I would love to see it.
Steve
 
sp53 said:
. If anyone has a picture of a 60 or 61 that is original, I would love to see it.
Steve

The very first pic in this thread is a '60...

Wow, I didn't realize the wires in Dave's pic are the way they are supposed to be. That does seem strange! It looks like the same bracket as mine, but my switch mounts through the bracket so the wiring stays behind the bracket. It looks like Dave's bracket has horizontal screw holes. My bracket has vertical screw holes...and not evenly spaced, so the switch only installs one way.

John
 
Hi John I think that is a pre 60k switch with the hole in the center for the switch. The latter ones did not have the large hole and the switch set in the bracket and bolted to the face.
 

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