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TR2/3/3A TR3 Cranking Dog Bolt Position

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Tinkerman

Tinkerman

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I'm putting the cranking dog bolt into position and read in the manual that the "ears" need to be at the 10 and 4 position. I have three shims on it at this point and I'm at 9:45 and 3:45 rather than 10 and 4. How important is that. If I take a shim out I'm nowhere close and another shim does no good. I might be able to sand a shim down enough to get it dead on, but again my question becomes, how important is the positioning?

Your thoughts greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Tinkerman
 
The 10 & 4 position is to facilitate ease in using the crank handle to actually start the car. If you don't plan to do this, the position of the dogs on the bolt is of no matter.

I have owned three TR3s. The starter has failed on ALL of them at one time or another. I have probably used the starting handle regularly for half of the time that I have driven TR3s. It is probably a good idea to have the starting dogs close to the right position. I'm guessing that 9:45 - 3:45 is probably close enough.

I have a new gear reduction starter from TSI for the current restoration. It is hoped that my days of hand cranking TRs have finally come to an end.
 
Tinkerman - The reason that it is suggested that the engagement be at 10 and 4 (or close to that), is when you insert the handcrank, the extension where you grip it with your hand will be at 10 AM (or 9:45 AM). Then with very little resistance you turn the crank clock-wise and when you get to about 1 PM, you will feel some resistance, but by now you have all your body weight behind the crank and you effort is all down. This will go down to about 6 PM with you body weight helping and you'll be amazed how easy (and quiet) it starts.

If it doesnt start, you try again. The same starting position and the same method.
 
Interesting... I have always started it with an upward pull (180 degrees off from your method). I'll try it your way next time -- might be easier on the (old) back.
 
Geo --
I am partial top the up-pull as well. It' safer. It also seems easier to deliver a strong turn on the engine though -- as you say, it can be harder on the back. I only notice that if I have to crank it more than the standard on or two times.

This is advice codified in the Model T era: NEVER grip the starting handle with your thumb opposite the rest of your fingers -- the way one normally grips s thing like that. If the motor kicks back, it can break your thumb. If you grip the handle with all five fingers wrapped around in the same direction, the handle can kick back out of your hand without taking the thumb with it.

If you are pulling up on the handle to start, the physics are different. A kick back will pull the handle against your four fingers, and pull out more or less harmlessly.
 
Don Elliott said:
you'll be amazed how easy (and quiet) it starts.
Click to expand...
Gee, you mean I learned to push-start the car (by myself) for nothing ?
grin.gif


Now that I actually have a TR with a hand crank, and a hole for it, and a dog behind the hole; I'll have to give your method a try !
 
Aloha,

When I was younger and money was tight, the starter on my MG failed. For about two years I used the hand crank to start the car. I am partial to the pulling up method combined with the overhand five finger grip for both safety and ease of starting. If the ignition is good condition, a quick pull up from about 7 o'clock to 12 o'clock got it started on the first try. I also meet several people that way as people would stop and watch as I walked to the front of the car with a crank in hand.

Both of the TR3s I've owned had the radiator recored with crank hole filled in. The MG crank went bellow the radiator.
 
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