TR2/3/3A TR3 Cooling system

[tr3]

any way to install an 8 bladed TR 6 fan on a TR3? If not what's the best way to assist cooling

 

[TR4]

Have you had the cooling system flushed? If you feel all is flowing well within the system and still not cooling, a different blade will help or you can put an electric fan kit on in front of the radiator and set it to engage at around 150 degrees. I am not sure what it takes to make a TR6 blade fit.

 

[Moseso]

I have heard that there is. TRF claims to sell a lot of them to TR3/4 owners. I believe that the mounting kit (bolts, spacers, washers) is different, so that needs to be bought too. They also suggest that "clearance issues" are aided by mounting the fan backwards on the end of the crank extension.

There is also much talk about thermostats. The repro sleeved t'stat sold by Moss is worth the money -- or, of course, a NOS one. There's one on ebay right now. The point is that some way to reduce flow through the bypass port in the t'stat housing must be found. That's what the sleeve on the t'stat does.

If you don't have the fiberboard duct in front of your radiator, get one. It's cheap and it helps.

There will be other answers, but I've known the stock system to work -- if it's all there and in good order.

 

[Geo Hahn]

What will work best for you depends in part on what cooling problem you're experiencing, e.g. more blades on the fan will only assist cooling at idle or low speed.

There's a laundry list of a dozen or more things one can do ranging from the simple & cheap to the complex & expensive. What are your symptoms?

 

[prb51]

Yes, it works.
Reverse the fan and use the TR6 mounting kit nuts/bolts etc. The clearance is fine.
I live in the Phoenix area and often drive in 110+ degrees and this fan helped quite a bit although I still have a pusher fan too. I only need the pusher when stopped/idling excessively.
The stock unit worked quite well actually as my system was clean and I use the sleeved therm etc. so if you are having overheating probs in the NE you might want to fix the prob not just the symptoms.
I know Randall, I should have dropped the big lump up front and just done the elec puller but I didn't have a damper and already had the parts...I'm sure that would work just right too.

https://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc138/prb51/DSC01048.jpg

 

[TR3driver]

I know Randall, I should have dropped the big lump up front and just done the elec puller but I didn't have a damper and already had the parts...I'm sure that would work just right too.

Hey, I'm not knocking the plastic fan approach. Lots of folks say it works for them and I don't doubt it. (Tho others talk about how they have to change/shorten the extension to make it fit.)

But being a hot-rodder at heart (more then than now) and not knowing of the plastic fan approach (didn't even know anyone else that owned a TR3 back then), and already having an alternator; I chose the electric fan approach for my car. Certainly not the only way, just the way I chose.

And I actually did it for (theoretically) more power to the wheels than for better cooling. Never was sure if I could tell the difference or not, so likely it didn't do much. Certainly one of the least cost-effective modifications I've made.

 

[TR3driver]

What will work best for you depends in part on what cooling problem you're experiencing,

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FWIW, when I had persistent problems with overheating at freeway speeds, the problem turned out to be a defective radiator. The original radiator held and flowed water just fine, but it turned out the tubes had pulled away from the fins. Having it recored made a world of difference.

Not likely to be your problem, just something to think about if your car overheats at 70 mph in moderate heat and none of the more common fixes seems to work.

 

[startech47]

Change the radiator cap to a NAPA Balkamp #703-1411 7 PSI 1" depth neck unit and add an overflow tank. Standard caps are for 3/4" depth necks and will not work. This will eliminate the air from the cooling system and give you a higher boiling point. Reduces future corrosion as well. I used a expansion tank from Midget as it looked period. They are usually on e-bay. No more puddles on the garage floor or driveway.

Had to pull the 1/2" venting disc off of the radiator cap on the expansion tank in order to make it not hold any pressure. Just used it to close the hole in the expansion tank.

Phil

 

[tr3]

The car overheats when at prolonged idle (>5 min). The radiator has been professionally flushed and tested with good results.

 

[Andrew Mace]

So the radiator's good, but how about the block? Amazing amounts of sediment can build up in there to impede coolant flow. If that's the case, the best radiator, fan and water pump can only do so much!

 

[martx-5]

The car overheats when at prolonged idle (>5 min). The radiator has been professionally flushed and tested with good results.

I've got a friend that just got his TR3 resto completed. He also had the radiator professionally flushed and tested. His car would start to run hot at idle also. He checked everything, and finally bought a new radiator from Moss. End of problem. I guess it all depends on the quality of the work at the radiator shop.

BTW, his original radiator had been recored many years ago and didn't have the crank hole anymore.

 

[TR3driver]

I've got a friend that just got his TR3 resto completed. He also had the radiator professionally flushed and tested.

The usual radiator shop test does not include testing for thermal efficiency. They only check whether it holds & flows water, not whether heat is actually conducted from the tubes to the fins.

 

[MGTF1250Dave]

Andy raised a good point. I have found that sediment (for want of a better term) tends to collect in the rear of the block and a build up causes poor engine cooling. Opening the petcock at the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold is a quick check. If there is sediment build up, the flow of coolant out of the petcock will be very slow or no existent. A short length of stiff heavy gauge wire (a coat hanger works well) can be inserted through the open petcock to loosen the sediment. Repeat the process as necessary until the coolant flows clear.

 

[gsalt57tr3]

If you are having heating issues at idle after 5 minutes, there's got to be other issues than the radiator or the airflow thru it. Whats the ambient temperature when that happens?

My Vanguard would idle for 20 minutes before it atarted getting warm, and that was in the summer in Fresno when its over 100.

For my TR3 I have only added an electric fan. It's always on during the summer, but I don't overheat.

 

[Don Elliott]

Before I installed an electric fan in my TR3A, the temperature indicated on the gauge would rise to 235 degrees in about 5 minutes. I never tested this at idle. It would rise when I was stuck in traffic. I suppose that's like "at idle". I brought it down a bit by putting in the cardboard air deflector (it's a very early 1958 TR3A and they only started to put the air deflectors into TR3As about June 1958). I had the radiator recored and set the timing correctly so the combustion would be more efficient. I installed a 12" Kenlowe (UK) fan in 1992 and I flick on the fan with a switch under the dash every time I see the temperature rise - it's always when I'm stuck in traffic. If it has aready risen to - say 215 degrees - the fan brings it right down to 180 again in less than 3 minutes. It is a pusher fan in front of the radiator and I still have the original fan mounted on the front end of the crankshaft. My water pump has a new housing and a new seal (1990), but the same original impeller with 97,000 miles since then on the pump and 180,000 miles on the impeller. In 1990, I blocked the bypass hose with a brass plug with a 1/8" diameter hole drilled in it to allow the air to rise when filling the coolant. I run 50-50 antifreeze.

 

[tr3]

The block and head were totally rebuilt last year. engine only has 2000 miles on it