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TR2/3/3A TR3 Clutch Slip

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Moseso

Moseso

Jedi Knight
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It's been hot around here. Engine temps are high. Not overheating, but approaching the third mark on the temp gauge at times.

In the last few hot days, I have experienced clutch slippage on hard acceleration in top gear. I do have clearance at the slave cylinder. Perhaps, not enough, but I just reached under the car (it's not all heated up now) and rattled the clutch lever -- it rattled, the slave cylinder is not pinched.

Assuming I am right out at the end of where I should be, and ought to adjust the slave rod for a little more play, has any one experienced loss of this clearance from hot conditions?

The slip has been intermittent, related to high ambient heat and only under the highest strain on the clutch.

I'm hoping, of course, that merely adjusting the slave rod will solve my problems, but thought I'd throw this out to discussion and see what others have to say.
 
Hate to say it Moses, but you may be in for a clutch job soon. I like to run my slave adjustment on the tight side, and have not had the clutch slip even with no clearance at the slave.

PS, Are you sure the MC is opening the valve to the reservoir? If not, heat can expand the fluid enough to activate the slave.
 
Pretty sure I got that right -- though anything on the outside of the bell housing is worth checking twice, before pulling the tranny.

The clutch is not one of the old parts I put back in the car, 8000 miles ago. Rebuilt disc I bought in 1984, and a NOS cover I bought off eBay in '07. It's been working swell. No grab, judder or slip, til recently, and all the action way up at the top of the pedal. It's a little hard for me to think of why it would be failing yet -- I don't ride the clutch...
 
Yes Moseso that does not sound right. The test in high gear up hill is what I usually do to check for a slipping clutch. Randall makes a good point. For example, a couple of years ago, I rebuilt a master cylinder and it had one of those old school double O rings on the piston, so what I did was go down to the local hydraulic shop and find a ring that kinda would fit. What happened was I slowed down the piston and as a result the clutch slipped. I took it all back apart and but a new complete cylinder in from bpnw and the slipping went away. However, in your case I am not sure that will help, but it is worth a shot. I think they sell the cylinders for less than a bill and if yours is in question what the heck you have a new cylinder.
Steve
 
Moseso said:
The clutch is not one of the old parts I put back in the car, 8000 miles ago. Rebuilt disc I bought in 1984, and a NOS cover I bought off eBay in '07. It's been working swell. No grab, judder or slip, til recently, and all the action way up at the top of the pedal. It's a little hard for me to think of why it would be failing yet -- I don't ride the clutch...
Click to expand...

All the action way up at the top of the pedal travel (versus closer to the floor) is what I've seen as a clutch wears although it's possible there could be other mechanical reasons it engages/disengages there.

Scott
 
Could it be contamination on th' driven plate Len? Any evidence of lube dripin' from the housing?

...jus' another suggestion.
 
DrEntropy said:
Could it be contamination on th' driven plate Len? Any evidence of lube dripin' from the housing?

...jus' another suggestion.
Click to expand...
That's certainly another obvious possibility to look into. Guess I gotta get out the ramps and poke around under there soon. Though, I haven't noticed any major fluid losses. I'm getting 1000 mi./qt of motor oil, and haven't seen any room at all to put more oil in the trans. I'm one of the lucky ones with the dipstick trans, so it's easy to check/fill.
 
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