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TR2/3/3A TR3 clutch slave and clevis

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Jedi Knight
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I am installing a nos slave cylinder ,supposed to be for tr3, and have a few questions
The clevis I have is ,I think, the right one with weired screw pin and spring washer and bracket for return spring.
All three holes in clutch shaft lever are about 1/4",but center of pin is about 5/16,stepped to 1/4 for the end and cotter pin.I think I just have to drill it out in place ,but am wondering whats wrong-later clevis assembly-early lever?
Also on adjustment I read an old post by Randall
(I hope your out there)on Triumph forum that the slave cylinder should have external spring to force piston to bottom of bore even if rod is absent.My cyinder is as shown in Clymer Owners Handbook for t2-4,internal filler cup spring and lever return spring.
I think can adjust rod length for the required freeplay with plunger at bottom of bore with system dry,but was also wondering if piston can over extend,bending rod or lever,especially when adjustment procedure mentioned starting by measuring lever travel,which I havent done.
Your thoughts and info much appreciated,
Tom
 
The clutch lever holes were all the same, you should not have to drill anything out. But I believe they were all 5/16" so I can't explain why yours is smaller unless someone has tried to repair it.

I don't have a Clymer manual handy to check, but it sounds like you are looking at (and have) the early Lockheed clutch slave, which did have a spring and spreader for the cup. But your car should have the later Girling slave (from TS13046 onwards) which is not the same. With the Girling slave, the seal has a hole in the center and fits over the piston. The diagrams do show a spring, and replacement cylinders are sometimes supplied with a spring, but it should be deleted for TR3-4 applications.

Should be no risk of damage from over-extending, unless you try really hard. The lever & shaft are quite strong, so unless you are the proverbial 600lb gorilla, you're not likely to be physically able to press the pedal that hard.

Plus you will have to adjust the clevis for at least some freeplay, in order to insert the pin.

Here's a diagram of the Girling slave (with the spring edited out)
 

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Thanks Randall.After my post I realized my issue with the undersized holes was very thick paint ,and after some scraping the pin fit.
My cylinder is Girling 1",same as your illustration,only it does have internal spring,and an o ring on plunger.
The Clymer pic was I guess lockheed as the internals are very different,but I was just looking at the internal spring.Installation is complete,so only thing now is hope the original seal is silicone compatable.
Thanks again
Tom
 
The old ones I have seen have that little weak spring inside them also. I have seen some very old pistons that have that extra O ring on the end also. I think it is for dust or whatever. I have never seen that O ring in a kit, once I hunted down a ring that worked, but what happened was it slowed up the whole works and I took it off. Perhaps it was supposed to be made out felt I do not know, but I would not put that extra ring on again unless I had more information.

steve
 
Thanks Steve.This original Girling nos 1" bore slave with o-ring is in,everything moves nice,and yes the internal" filler cup spring" is weak,not at all like a MC return spring.Felt would probably do the same thing,wipe the bore ahead of the seal,but if I ever rebuild and no ring,I wont worry about it.Thanks
Tom
 
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