TR2/3/3A TR3 Clutch Advice

[Hatman]

As clutch replacement is on the "To Do While Everything Is Apart" list on my 59 TR3, I was looking to take advantage of TRF's weekend sale on clutch components. My question is, should I replace *everything* while I'm in there, as TRF suggests (yes, I do realize they sell parts . . .) Along with the clutch plate, clutch disc, and TO bearing, "everything" would include: cross shaft and bushings; TO fork; taper pin; TO bearing sleeve; and the crankshaft pilot bush. Adds about $130 to the cost of the clutch job.

Any thoughts? As always, thanks in advance for the advice/feedback.

 

[Moseso]

Have you actually gotten the throwout fork off the shaft without breaking the taper pin???

My advice is to look over what you've got, assess the condition and reuse anything that isn't beat to bits, worn sloppy or flat out broken -- EXCEPT -- the taper pin. That get's replaced even if it comes out in one piece.

In my case, the cross shaft was pretty sloppy in its bushings, so I had to take it out. Neither the pin nor the fork nor the shaft survived that process, so -- all replaced. There was nothing wrong with the bearing sleeve, so it went back in.

 

[TR3driver]

Well, I fall more into the "If it ain't broke" school. The friction plate is probably worth replacing anyway (since it's apart), but if the pressure plate passes inspection, I'd reuse it. Likewise the TOB, if it turns freely and smoothly under load (lay it on the floor and stand on it).

BTW, my local FLAPS can have the friction plate relined/reconditioned, for less than half the price of a new one.

Bushings, yes. Inspect the cross shaft for wear where it rides in the bushing nearest the slave; if it's not worn, keep it. No reason to replace the fork unless it is damaged (although you might replace the pins that engage the TOB sleeve, if they are worn).

I did replace the pilot bush, but it was probably a waste of money. Old one looked fine. If you do reuse the old one, soak it in engine oil overnight, then let it drain on a paper towel. (New ones typically come already oiled, but it wouldn't hurt to soak them again.)

One thing I would definitely suggest though, is reinforcing the taper pin.

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchShaft/ClutchShaft.htm

 

[Hatman]

So how do I get the cross shaft/clutch fork out? Removed the safety-wired bolt from the clutch fork. Removed the retaining bolt and the grease zerk from the right end of the cross shaft. Factory manual says the clutch fork should now slide off the cross shaft, but that's not happening for me. Any hints on getting this out?

 

[TR3driver]

Did the taper pin come out in one piece?

If not, there is a broken stub left behind that is keeping the fork trapped on the shaft; like Moses was alluding to. There is a good article on removing it at
https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchForkPin/RemovingBrokenClutchForkPins.htm

Note that it's a lot easier to start the hole if you hold the drill perpendicular to the surface of the fork at that point. Once you've got a good dimple started, you can slowly turn the drill until it's aligned with the taper pin. It may also take a bit of experimentation to get the broken pin lined up with the hole. Try moving the fork around on the shaft, then put it in the middle of the range it will move through.

If all else fails, you may have to cut (and replace) the shaft.

 

[Don Elliott]

I had to drill a hole up throught the bellhousing and with a long set point or drift, I was able to hammer the rest of the broken tapered pin out. Then it was easy after that. I tapped the hole and inserted a pipe thread plug in case I ever need to do this again.

But I put in a second bolt and nut and have had no issues with this in the past 15 years. I used the ideas similar to the one on the Buckeye Ohio site.

https://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

 

[Hatman]

Thanks guys -- I'm pretty sure the "pin" part is still in there. I removed what I thought was just a bolt -- didn't look too closely at it, but I'm pretty sure there was no "pin" part attached to it. I'll tackle tomorrow and see how it works out.

 

[Hatman]

Well, it looks like I will be needed that clutch shaft and fork . . .

I tried drilling a hole to tap out the taper pin, but didn't have much luck. Essentially, I ended up drilling through the pin as well, but still couldn't get the fork off. Several broken drill bits later, I decided to go ahead and cut out the shaft and fork.

So, for those of your who have made the improvement noted in the Buckeye Triumph article, are you still using the taper pin in conjunction with the new through bolt?

 

[Geo Hahn]

...So, for those of your who have made the improvement noted in the Buckeye Triumph article, are you still using the taper pin in conjunction with the new through bolt?

Yes, the pin, the safety wire and the grade bolt. That sucker should stay put now...

 

[TR3driver]

So, for those of your who have made the improvement noted in the Buckeye Triumph article, are you still using the taper pin in conjunction with the new through bolt?

Yup. You'll need a new taper pin anyway, to hold the fork & shaft in proper alignment while drilling the hole. Might as well install it afterwards, whether it's absolutely required or not.

One comment, be sure you have the fork in the proper orientation before drilling. My shaft has an extra hole in it ...

Oh, and also double-check that the end of the bolt does not foul on the gearbox front cover. It's better to start with a longer bolt (so the shank goes mostly through the fork), but that will leave too much thread hanging out.

 

[Moseso]

Have you actually gotten the throwout fork off the shaft without breaking the taper pin???

In my case, the cross shaft was pretty sloppy in its bushings, so I had to take it out. Neither the pin nor the fork nor the shaft survived that process, so -- all replaced.

Yup... That's what I was talkin' about...

 

[TR3driver]

Well, it looks like I will be needed that clutch shaft and fork . . .

I tried drilling a hole to tap out the taper pin, but didn't have much luck.

Bit after the fact now, but looking at your photo, it seems your new hole is in the wrong place. You want it co-axial with the original taper pin hole, so that the punch isn't trying to force the jagged stump into the threads. That means the hole has to start up the side of the fork a ways, hence my comment about starting the hole perpendicular to the surface and then turning to align with the taper pin.

My shaft was worn enough to replace anyway, but both it and the fork came out in one piece. In fact, I just recently moved that fork into TS13571L, still with a hole in it.