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TR2/3/3A TR3 Choke Cable

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fogdot

Jedi Hopeful
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Is the TR3 choke cable supposed to be a solid wire or stranded cable?
I have a stranded cable, with the "notches" and twist to lock. It has a knob with only "C". It doesn't have the "pushbutton" knob removal. the knob is molded to the cable.
I bought a knob kit, and the choke knob has the word CHOKE. the new knob also has the pushbutton attach.
 
Stranded choke cables will only work on carbs that have a built in/on spring to pull the choke open, thus using the cable mainly for closing and holding it there during warm ups. If your carbs are so equipped, you'll be fine.

For example. earlier TR6's used stranded because of the spring that was on the choke mechanism. The later models (73 & up?) used the solid cables as the spring was removed.

It looks as though the solid will work on either, but it's hard to push a choke lever using just a stranded cable without mechanical assistance.
 
The TR3 cable is stranded. It uses a spring on each choke jet mechanism to return the jets back to the up position. I don't know what's going on with your knob, as all the TR3 cables I've seen have the push button to remove. There's some talk about what should be on the knob itself. Some say that just the word "CHOKE" should be there, others say some came with "CHOKE" "PULL" on it. Both my original and aftermaket knobs have "CHOKE" "PULL" on them.
 
fogdot said:
I have a stranded cable, with the "notches" and twist to lock. It has a knob with only "C". It doesn't have the "pushbutton" knob removal. the knob is molded to the cable.
Click to expand...
Well, what ever that <span style="font-style: italic">is</span>, it's not a stock TR3 choke cable -- though it may well do the job. Art's description matches what I have too -- though my cable is a repro from TRF.
 
Well, I have stranded with springs too weak to return the jet to normal position. Perhaps it's the Moss "O" rings on the jet that are just too tight. Maybe I'll get a set of the cork rings and go in again.
 
I agree, original was stranded with a removable knob.

But at one time, original style cables (with the removable knob) were not available; and many of the reproductions had either fixed knobs, or threaded knobs. I got a fixed knob repro from Moss "back when" that I like so well I'm moving it to the project TR3. Unlike the original cable, it will lock securely in any position, and shows no wear after over 10 years and 100k miles of daily driving. The originals were brass and tended to wear until they would not lock in position. Plus they tended not lock securely even when new.

Somewhere, I have an "Official Triumph Choke Knob locking device", given to me by an ex-BL employee, which looks suspiciously like a clothes pin with a bit of string (to hang it from the knob)
grin.gif
 
fogdot said:
Well, I have stranded with springs too weak to return the jet to normal position. Perhaps it's the Moss "O" rings on the jet that are just too tight. Maybe I'll get a set of the cork rings and go in again.
Click to expand...
If you haven't already, polish the jets while you are at it. Any kind of brass polish will do, or even toothpaste. I would also replace the springs inside the jets if you don't know their history ... some people stretch them to try to stop the seals from leaking, which of course causes the jet to be hard to move.
 
As Randall said, originally stranded with push-on knob. The 2s & VERY early 3s knob only had "CHOKE" printed on them; then "CHOKE PULL" later on. Same with the starter knob (No instructions!)

<span style="color: #CC0000">I've had trouble getting enough "OOMPH" on the knob to activate the chokes. A SU mechanic suggested replacing the jet levers. I did. I don't know why but it helped. (The old ones didn't show any visible signs of wear.)</span>

I drove a friends small-mouth & his choke was EFFORTLESS. His theory is if the carbs (and everything else) were in good tune, you only need to choke the front one to get a cold start. He runs RH jet needles in his SUs, perhaps that makes a difference.
FRank
 
6TTR3A said:
I drove a friends small-mouth & his choke was EFFORTLESS. His theory is if the carbs (and everything else) were in good tune, you only need to choke the front one to get a cold start. He runs RH jet needles in his SUs, perhaps that makes a difference.
FRank
Click to expand...

Choking only the front carb was mentioned some months ago in this Forum. I removed the linkage; you are right the car starts just fine and the choke is very easy to pull. I run the stock needles.
 
6TTR3A said:
I drove a friends small-mouth & his choke was EFFORTLESS. His theory is if the carbs (and everything else) were in good tune, you only need to choke the front one to get a cold start.
Click to expand...
I gotta try that! It practically takes two hands to pull mine out -- and the rear jet doesn't return to the run position without manual help. (Haven't polished it yet...) Maybe just disconnecting it would be easier.
 
I was expecting Don E to respond. FWIW - Don has always maintained that "choke" only should appear on the knob. But, my original says "choke" AND "pull", so perhaps this was a change at some point in production. Don's is an early 3A, mine is a mid-range.
 
My definitely original knob in TS51006L (1959) says "choke" and "pull."
 
Opinions vary, but mine is that if your engine runs fine cold with only one choke activated, your mixture is too rich.
 
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