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TR2/3/3A TR3 caliper dust boots - any tips to install

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H

hermanmaire

Jedi Hopeful
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Could use some help for my tr3 caliper rebuild project. I am trying to get the new dust boots in there slot but I am loosing my mind trying to do it.

I have tried with the caliper piston out while the new boot is in its slot but then I cant get the piston into the caliper. Then I tried to fit the new dust boot with the piston in the caliper then I can get the dust boot in its slot. WHATS THE DEAL??? something I thought would take 5 seconds .

help.

Thanks
 
I did mine more then 20 years ago and I can't remember the solution but I do remember feeling the way you seem to be feeling. I think it just took time and finally I got lucky (four times).
 
If memory serves (it has been a long time ago), I first lubricated everything with DOT 5 fluid, then installed the boot onto the piston with the small part (that normally engages the slot on the piston) positioned lower than normal, down on the sealing surface. Then I could push on the outside of the boot to make the caliper end protrude, enough that I was able to work it into it's slot inside the caliper. Then I pushed the piston into the caliper to first lock the boot into it's slot; and then so the smaller boot lip went into it's slot on the piston.

Part of the reason I love DOT 5; I've never had to touch those seals again!
 
Randalls way will work just find. The problem I found with replacing the seals was with the fact that the rubber in the new kits is on the thick side. Which in my case made it next to impossible to push in the pistons. I did get them together but the piston was so tight, I did not want to leave it that way. I was lucky to find a NOS rebuild kit and it went back together just fine.
 
I used the home-made tool described here. It helps to be able to manipulate that (slick) piston, while keeping the dust seal in its groove.
 
I was rebuilding mine same problem as Mallard describes, not just too thick, but inconsistent, the boot has got some excess flash that seems to be keeping the piston from going in. The seals don't seem to be super well made either, I was tempted to re-use the old ones.

I got two boots on no problem the other two would not go on, and I ended up splitting them under the pressure I needed to get them on.

Now I have to order some new ones....
 
I install mine by using (low pressure) compressed air. The air is pumped into the caliper thru the hole for the brake line -- bleed screw in place and opposite piston in place and held with a clamp (w/ or w/o its boot).

I have the boot in the groove in the cylinder and the piston perched on top of it (a piece of wood holds the piston against the boot) -- all lubed up as Randall describes. As the air is introduced the boot inflates a bit and 'wants' to get around the bottom of the piston.

I help it do that with a tool made from a length of 12ga copper wire bent into a small hook and the end and the tip rounded to prevent tearing the boot.

The air is controlled with an air gun using a length of small hose (I used 1/4" irrigation line) poked into the caliper. This is leaky enough that nothing should go flying across the room.

My wife mans (womans?) the air gun and I work the boot around the piston.

Once The whole thing is set up the actual install is over in a matter of seconds. The boot is stretched around the piston which can then be pressed home.

Good luck.
 
I have ordered some new seal kits from Rock Auto, they are closing out Beck Anrley caliper rebuild kits for less than $5, I ordered an extra, not sure if this is both sides or one, but either way a deal, hope then end up as better quaility than the sets I got from an unnamed major vendor of British car parts in the midwest.
 
I just (two days ago) replaced both calipers. I put in the rubber orings then installed the outer dust cover. The dust cover is a pain but can be installed using extreme patience. Then after all the rubber was installed I put motor oil on the caliper piston and then worked it into the hole. This also required extreme patience. Then I had a few beers :-}
 
TFR said:
Then after all the rubber was installed I put motor oil on the caliper piston and then worked it into the hole.
Click to expand...


I thought that the rubber used in automotive brakes is not compatible with petroleum-based products.

Or is this one of those things that used to be true but the technology has changed while I wasn't paying attention?
 
Well I don't know... The repair kit was purchased from VB and made in China. I always use a little motor oil but I guess I could have used synthetic brake fluid.
I do know that the DOT 3 and DOT 4 ruined my master cylinder.
 
I got the boot kits today, the Beck Arnley kits are of much higher quality than what I had, haven't tried the install yet, but I think I am going to swap the cheapo seals that I could get on for the better stuff I have now.
 
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