-
Hi Guest!
If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR2/3/3A Tr3 breather pipe
- Thread starter sp53
- Start date
Share this page
I've never heard of removing the breather pipe during an oil change. The oil change is tough enough without adding any additional steps! Maybe someone else knows something that I don't (I'm absolutely certain that most people know several things that I don't), but I'd leave it alone.
jsneddon
Jedi Knight
Offline
Nope - never had to remove the breather pipe even with the PITA original cannister filter. With highly-reccomended (in my opinion) spin-on adapter you can even change the filter from above.
For the orignal-obsessed I think Geo has the paint color to spray the spin-on filter green so it looks pretty darn original.
If you think you need to take off the breather pipe to get the cannister off I wonder if yours is bent??? There is nothing serviceable in the pipe itself and nothing to change - I don't even think there is any screen at the top of it.
I've also been told by no means should you change the length or move where it goes because the air travelling past it at speed creates a specific vacuum. Changing this pipe in any way leads to very messy results. But then again I seem to recall a couple of SCCA TR3's with some kind of hose attatched that ran up into a empty oil bottle wedged between the battery and the frame in the battery box.
For the orignal-obsessed I think Geo has the paint color to spray the spin-on filter green so it looks pretty darn original.
If you think you need to take off the breather pipe to get the cannister off I wonder if yours is bent??? There is nothing serviceable in the pipe itself and nothing to change - I don't even think there is any screen at the top of it.
I've also been told by no means should you change the length or move where it goes because the air travelling past it at speed creates a specific vacuum. Changing this pipe in any way leads to very messy results. But then again I seem to recall a couple of SCCA TR3's with some kind of hose attatched that ran up into a empty oil bottle wedged between the battery and the frame in the battery box.
I guess the reason I asked the question is that the filter is so difficult to remove and get back on without stripping the aluminum housing that for years I would pop off the breather vent pipe when I changed the oil. I just wanted the extra room to work. I just accepted the oil blow by as part of open crank case ventilation system OCV. Then I guess I was boarded and was trying to stop some of the oil leaking and figured that perhaps the area around the vent pipe where it goes into the block was sealed at the factory, and if I dynamited the breather pipe back into block it perhaps would slow down the oil leaks. Sealing the breather kinda moved the leaks toward the back and did slow it down some, I think. I hate oil leaks. I think that is why I own a tr3 it gives me something to hate. Seriously, mine really does not leak that much but oil leaks do bug me. I have the original filter set up and like it that way. I guess next time I will leave the newly dynamited breather pipe on and see if I can get the filter on and off without too much trouble.
George
George