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TR2/3/3A TR3 Brakes and oil cooler question

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prb51

prb51

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Two questions: I've the 11" early TR3 disc brakes. I'm overseas so can't check my car but I've seen the ebay add. 10 3/4" rotors as being compatible-T/F? Also, I will be adding an oil cooler for our Az summers. I've seen them done locally with a front apron cut out below the radiator opening. Anyone have and alt location without body work
 
Hi,

I can't answer your questions about rotor compatibility, but I can suggest alternative oil cooler locations.

In fact, probably the easiest location is just flush up against the front of the radiator, near the bottom. By being flush, or very nearly so, there will be little or no disturbance of air flow through the radiator. The cooling fan will pull air through the cooler, as well as the radiator.

Many of the oil cooler "kits" don't have long enough hoses for this sort of mounting. For that reason, I think it's better to buy parts separately and make up a set of hoses. The last kit I saw from one of the major Triumph vendors had BSP (British Pipe) threads, too, which makes it a bit harder to find hose fittings in the U.S. (www.pegasusautoracing.com used to be a good source, though).

Otherwise, most of the kit parts were the same as available from a wide variety of sources. The last cooler I bought came from www.racerpartswholesale.com, who had a very competitive price. It had 10AN fittings, which made it pretty easy to make up a set of hoses. I got a 16 row Mocal, which is a bit oversize for a TR 4-cylinder. 13 row is more commonly what's installed.

There are other possible oil cooler locations. It could lie almost horizontal, in front of and below the front of the radiator, so that air moving under the car flows up through it. I've also seen oil coolers installed vertically on one side or the other of the radiator, both with and without cutting an opening in the radiator ducts to route some air to the cooler. I'm not really excited about that sort of installation. Without any opening in the duct, I would think air flow to the cooler would be pretty limited. And, cutting the radiator duct takes some air flow way from the radiator, which is not something I'd want to do.

When installing an oil cooler, it's important to also install a thermostat for a couple reasons. One, it keeps cold oil out of the cooler, which *might* be damaged by high pressures. More importantly, it prevents over-cooling that's just as bad as overheated oil. Oil needs to reach a certain operating temp, and needs to get warm enough to "boil off" any water vapor that's settled in the crankcase the last time the engine cooled down. Currently installed on my TR4 is a Mocal t'stat combined with sandwich plate, a neat setup that takes care of both at the same time and is only slightly thicker than a standard non-thermostat sandwich plate take-off for oil cooler. I got it at the same online site, www.racerpartswholesale.com. My TR4 used their part number SP1T (3/4"x16 threaded).

Most of the rest of the plumbing I got from www.summitracing.com

For the current installation, I used standard stainless braided 10AN hoses and fittings. Next time, I'd like to try Earl's Pro-Lite hose and fittings, which Summit sells. It's sheathed with black, braided nylon, so is less abrassive than stainless steel.

There are some pics of the oil cooler installation on my TR4 at the link below. I will be putting intakes in the front valance of the car, however.

Hope this helps.
 
Alan, Thanks, great information and I totally agree about the thermostat. I think I'll try the bottom of the radiator. I have to remove the nose anyway to install the new radiator so I'll have plenty of room to work. I'm going to use the TR6 fan and probably switch to the smaller fan belt pully system. I drive quite a bit in 100+ weather and that really thins the oil when in traffic. Thanks again. Pat
 
I think you'll find the 10.75" are no-go for the TR3A (I think the offset is also different). Yes, I've seen the eBay listing that says TR2,3,4,250,6 but I think they are just misinformed.

TRF often runs a 'sale' price on their 11" -- right now they are $84.95 -- not cheap compared to the smaller diameter but a good price compared to some sources. I got a set a month or two back and they are fine... mounted up quite true.

Here's a snap of Arizonan Bob Schaller's TR3A with a large hole cut in the grille in front of the oil cooler. He had to do that while crossing Texas in July... of course he was pulling a TRailer at the time.

Alan's right about the location... you might want to confirm you have an original grille or a correct repro. For many years the repros had smaller openings than the originals and thus more restrictive air flow. Original openings were 5/8".

bobs.JPG
 
[ QUOTE ]
...Yes, I've seen the eBay listing that says TR2,3,4,250,6 but I think they are just misinformed.

[/ QUOTE ]

There's a lot of that on eBay, unfortunately. I think I recently saw a set of hoodsticks (soft top frame) listed for TR3,TR4,TR250,TR6,TR7 and Spitfire. AFAIK (not sure aboot TR6/7 & Spit), TR2/3 use one type, TR4 another, TR4A/250/5 yet another. It was anyone's guess what the seller was actually offering.

[ QUOTE ]
Here's a snap of Arizonan Bob Schaller's TR3A with a large hole cut in the grille in front of the oil cooler. He had to do that while crossing Texas in July... of course he was pulling a TRailer at the time.

[/ QUOTE ]

Gee, if he'd removed the license plate, might have been able to avoid cutting up the grill! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
Geo,
I understand why he's got the bra on the car for the cross country haul. They're very good at stopping stone chips. But I just gotta say how much I detest those things.
They look awful, and the way most people use them, they cause more damage from moisture and rubbing than they ever prevent from stones and bugs.
I never understood why someone would buy a car then cover it up so noone can see what it looks like.
I'd personally choose the chips and dings over the disgrace of wrapping something that ugly around the front of an otherwise beautiful car. I like the "used petina" anyway.
Anyone running one of these, please don't take offense, this is strictly a personal opinion.
It would probably change if I was "cross-countrying" a show car. and my rant is aimed more at those who install an auto bra as a perminant accessory, instead of a temporary protective device as they were designed.
Ok it's out of my system now.
 
Whatever ya'll do, don't mention "bra" and "hooters" in the same post. You will get Jaybird started over in the MG playground.

Bill
 
[ QUOTE ]
Whatever ya'll do, don't mention "bra" and "hooters" in the same post.
Bill

[/ QUOTE ]
I think you just did /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
 
My kind of forum. Start out talking about Brakes and cooling and end up on "bra & hooters". Might as well be standing in the garage having a beer looking at headers.
Anyhow, I've a TR3 smallmouth so the air is well channeled and I think I'll try a mounting point low on the Rad as suggested before I modify bodywork.
I figured the .25 in. rotor dif would be a bridge to far. I emailed the ebay gent and he assured me of the correct fit etc.(maybe he sells hoodsticks too). I'll go with stock and green pads.
 
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