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TR2/3/3A TR3 Beading 101

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CJD

CJD

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OK, the old beading off the TR3 had tabs that were bent over double on the end to form a "T" shape. The new ones I just received from Moss have only straight tabs 1-3/4" long. So, do these tabs get bent over, or do they just stick right through the joint and get clamped by the bolts?

Thanks,

John
 
John, The beading on my TR3A, known to be original, has straight tabs. They fasten as you suggest above. Tom
 
CJD said:
...the old beading off the TR3 had tabs that were bent over double on the end to form a "T" shape...
Click to expand...

That shape is, of course, how the end of the tab that's inside of the beading would look (if you could see it). Perhaps the old tabs you're referring to out of the beading & lying about loose?
 
I bought brand new beading, and it came with the tabs attached. The end of the tabs that hold the beading have a small loop bent into them to hold them in the beads. The other end is just straight metal. The original tabs are bent over on both ends...one to fit the bead, and the other end makes a "T" shape...I assume to capture the edge of the wing. Because of the lack of the "T", the new tabs are longer overall.

The "T" shape on the originals had to be machine produced, as it is way to neat and consistent to be done by hand. Could it be the "T"'s are just to prevent the sharp edges from sticking straight out into the wheel well area?

So the options I see for installation are (A) to just stick the new tabs into the seam and tighten the bolts, or, (B) put them in place and then bend over the tab end to prevent them from pulling out...or cutting me next time I am working in the well area.

John
 
One hint I remember hearing is to position the tabs just above the bolts holding the wings on: in the areas where the beading is goes vertical. This way should the tabs vibrate over time at least they won't fall down any farther than the bolt potentially creating a loose section of bead between widely spaced tabs. I'm not sure how tightly pinched between the wing and other panels the tabs would otherwise be as I am not at that part of my restoration.
 
John,

Will not get to that point for quite some time on my TR3 but on my TR4A the original beading and tabs were bent over.

Scott
 
Hi John one thing you might run into is the pinch at the holding point of the tab might not be there. The plane were the fender meets the tub is not perfect, so make sure you get the tab as close to a bolt as you can or it might want to lift up and not lay flat on the finish. In addition, some of the tabs on the front fender above the door area will need to be cut or folded. Folding perhaps is the best option because it will help hold the tab in. it just depends on how tight the pinch between the tub and fender are.
Steve
 
Just getting to this point with my TR3. Fitting the beading. The front beading that I have (new) has 5 tabs on each side of the long piece that screws inside the engine compartment. Seems like I only need maybe 2 tabs between the engine and door, and several more would be useful from engine down to front of car. Can these tabs be removed and reinstalled easily? If so, any hints? Both sides are made like this ... is there some reason so many are needed between door and engine? I'll post a picture if that would help explain. Cheers, Mike
 
I pop-riveted the tabs for the beading onto the front wings. It makes installation of the wings and front apron a whole lot easier. Also, if you have to remove the front apron at a later date, you don't have to mess with the beading. Just loosen the wing bolts where they attach to the fender well and spread the wings out enough so that the apron clears the overlap of the beading.
 
mgedit said:
Just getting to this point with my TR3. Fitting the beading. The front beading that I have (new) has 5 tabs on each side of the long piece that screws inside the engine compartment. Seems like I only need maybe 2 tabs between the engine and door, and several more would be useful from engine down to front of car. Can these tabs be removed and reinstalled easily? If so, any hints? Both sides are made like this ... is there some reason so many are needed between door and engine? I'll post a picture if that would help explain. Cheers, Mike
Click to expand...
Your beads are made wrong, there should only be 2 tabs in the rear section. But 5 is about right for the front.

Depending on exactly how they are formed, it might be possible to work the rear tabs out the end and insert them into the front, but personally I wouldn't attempt it. Too much chance of damaging the bead (which is quite fragile when not installed). The 5 tabs at the back won't hurt anything, so I'd just put it in that way.

I find that a strip of masking tape applied to each tab helps prevent scratching the paint when installing the beads.
 
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