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TR2/3/3A TR3 Battery cable

mallard

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What AWG wire was used to make the battery, and solenoid wires? Also how do you connect the lead helmet heads to the cable without melting both?
 
Keith,
I acquired some "4 guage battery cable" with a car and have used it for battery and solenoid connections. For my helmet heads I used a solenoid to battery cable and cut off the one end to put the helmet head on it. For the ground I used a engine ground strap and did the same by cutting off the one end.
To solder them on I recall using a torch and melting the solder into the cable/ helmet head cavity after inserting the cable. I do not recall any melting of the helmet head in the process. I may well have singed some plastic covering on the cable. Just try to be careful with the heat.
Charley :encouragement:
 
George I have both type, lead, and the repro ones that look like bronze. My lead ones are kind of beat up though. Charley I was thinking of using a ground strap that I have and cutting off one end. Not sure if it would be long enough though. I was also thinking it might be #4 wire.
 
Keith,

The ground strap is fairly short and is woven or braided. So it depends upon how close to original you wish to be.
Charley
 
Since I don't drive my TR3 every day, I like putting a cut off switch on cars. I just can't find where to put it on a 3. Looks a little clunky and the bonnet is such a pain to raise each time; hence, I bought a on/off switch but now I don't know where to put it with the negative cable just goes to the firewall and I want the switch in the cockpit.
 
When I got my TR, it had a switch like this one. It was mounted to the right of the battery (i.e., passenger side) so the key was around the passenger's knees. The switch was in the positive lead of the battery, which is not traditional, but should be OK.

That setup requires drilling a hole, which you might not want. But, logically, if the switch is in the engine compartment and the key in the passenger compartment, there is really no way to avoid that.
 
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