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TR2/3/3A TR3-4 Front suspension question

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PeterK

PeterK

Yoda
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I have a question about the lower fulcrum on the TR3-TR4 front suspension.

https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29136

The lower fulcrum shaft has a steel bush(# 118) that fits over the shaft, and a nylon bush(# 117) that is pressed into the lower wishbone. Does the nylon bush in the wishbone rotate around the steel bush or does the steel bush rotate around the fulcrum shaft, or both?

I'm confused on which to lubricate as I assemble.

On my car, the nylon is definitely worn and a couple of the steel bushes were pretty frozen to the shafts. So I thought I might use anti-sieze on the steel and poly-lube on the nylon.

Any btdt ideas? Looks like TR3 and TR4 share the same mounting arrangement.
 
I'm pretty sure that the steel sleeve gets captured by the tab and nut that goes over the end of the shaft. The real movement occours between the steel and nylon sleeves. the steel sleeve is there to provide a replaceable wearable surface to the perminant shaft.
I would still apply some anti-sieze to the shaft before sliding the steel sleeve over it in case you ever find yourself in there again.
 
Thanks Banjo. I thought the steel might be a wear item since the fulcrum shaft is soft steel and the sleeve is hardened. I've got one stuck sleeve (the one just under the gas line) and I torched it a bit but still stuck so I think I just might leave it.

Is the nylon lubricated normally? Maybe some poly bushing lube?
 
Well, I hope someone who knows pipes in, but it's been my opinion that nothing 'rotates'. All the parts move a little (rotate/turn).

One of my TR6 (urthane) trailing arm bushings (same type set-up) is constantly developing a squeak. I should have packed more greese in there while assembling, and maybe dirt wouldn't be able to get in.
 
The poly lube would be a good idea. I would try to get that sleeve off if you can. I know it's hardened, but maybe cut it with a dremel, Or what I usually do is carefully blow through it with the torch. (I know, It's the one by the fuel line)
But even if you put a small spot in the shaft, so what. the new sleeve covers it.
Still, it's not the end of the world. especially ir the old sleeve is still in good shape.
 
The hardened bushing should be hard to get on and most definitely should not have rotated on the fulcrum pin. If it has in the past use some epoxy to help hold it in place. If it's hard to remove use map gas or an acetylene torch. If you're good with drills and taps add a grease fitting to the A arm and nylon bushings and take a dremel tool and add a slot on the inside of the nylon from the grease hole all the way around the inside radius. I've had a setup like that for 20+ yrs and they have shown minimal wear.
Tom Lains
TS8651 & 58107
 
On my TR4, the steel bushings were also hard to get off - I think on both sides it was the front leading bush, maybe because they saw more road spray and had a little more corrosion.

I pulled them by grinding a flat on each side of the bushing, attaching vice grips, then with a little heat applied I rotated until I broke the rust bond. A little more rotation and coaxing after that and the bushings came off.

I did put grease on the lower fulcrum pins before adding the new bushings. The bushings went on easily, no persuasion required. The grease was more to reduce corrosion for the next owner than to help anything rotate.

Randy
 
I like to use liberal amouts of anti-seize just in case i still own the car when it's due for another rebuild...
 
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