• Hi Guest!
    You can help ensure that British Car Forum (BCF) continues to provide a great place to engage in the British car hobby! If you find BCF a beneficial community, please consider supporting our efforts with a subscription.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

TR5/TR250 TR250 engine numbers

Share this page

TR6oldtimer

TR6oldtimer

Darth Vader
Offline
OK, a couple of questions. I have a TR6 in restoration and just starting to re-build the engine. This engine is original to the car, but is really worn out. It will need new pistons, crank ground .10, and will need the cam shaft bored for bearings.

I also have a TR250 engine, year unknown, with an engine number of CC1818E. My reading up on the the TR250's has indicated that the 1968 engines had cam shaft bushings.

So, here is my choice. I know the TR250 engine was in better shape then the original in the car, probably just needing new bearings and pistons .20 over. If this engine is one of those 1968 models, then I can save a chunk of change by not having to line bore for the cam. Do any of you know the year associated with the CC1818E number.

My second question, is I have dumped a lot more into this TR6 then I intended, and a lot more to come, but still a labor of love/hate. However, it will be a very nice car when done. The question is, is there that big a difference in sales price if the engine is from another period?

Or should I just pay the freight and keep it as original as possible? I think I know the difference, I just need to be able to tell the wife with a straight face why I need to spend more.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
My reading up on the the TR250's has indicated that the 1968 engines had cam shaft bushings.
Click to expand...
You might want to double-check that. I don't have my books handy, but that's not the way I remember it.

CC1818E would be a 1968 motor (which I believe is the only year they made TR250s). Personally I doubt using it would affect the car's value enough to pay for the line-boring, but I'm certainly no expert in that area so YMMV. Triumphs are generally lousy investments anyway, so I tend to look at changes as though I plan to keep the car forever ... and my heirs aren't likely to know the difference :laugh:
 
Randall might be correct about the effect on value. On the other hand, as the cars get older, some folks might well put more of a premium on a "correct" car.

Me? I'd want to know for absolute sure that the TR250 engine in fact was that much better than the original. If it needs pistons and bearings, it doesn't sound all that much better, which is to say beyond the fact that it might yield a bit more power than the later engine (assuming both stay "stock").
 
Andrew. There is little, if any difference between the 250 block over the TR6. All I was considering was if the 250 block had cam bearings, then by using it I could avoid the cost of a line bore and a crank grind. If I went with the 250 block, I would retain the TR6 head which I have had shaved and the GP2 cam can go in.

I guess what I need to do is get a quote on the job, that is if the jobber can do the work. If not, in goes the 250 block.

But then again, I am only talking about $700-800, ONLY $700-800!

Where I live, top dollar will probably by paid by a drug dealer. They like exotic cars and don't give a hoot about originality.

Decisions, decisions.

This should be easy, I guess I am just getting old.
 
TR6oldtimer said:
But then again, I am only talking about $700-800,
Click to expand...
So the line-bore only is $500-$600? Hmmm, this has me thinking about making tools again ... with that kind of budget, the big chunk of steel for a boring bar should be no problem and then we only need some end plates and adjustable sleeves for it to move in ...
 
You need to move to the California Central Coast here in Santa Cruz where the median home price is around $600,000 and no industry.

Anyway, there is no one in the county that turns a crank shaft. All from the area are sent to Sacromento, the cost will be some were around $250+. There are probably some shops in Santa Clara, but you need to trust those in your neighborhood who do this all the time.

The shop that I hope can do line bore does this work on V8's, V6's, 4's, and truck and tractor 6's. The cost to do the work will vary depending on whether he has the tool to enlarge the seat by ~.120, that is if he can attach his machine to my block.

My foot is getting better, so by the end of the week I should know.

Thanks for the conversation, it is helpful.

(Am I starting to sound like Dale? No offense to Dale meant.)
 
Guess I'm out of touch. Last time I had a crank ground, I just toddled over to National Crankshaft in Anaheim as recommended by Ken G. Three cranks magnafluxed, eight journals ground and ISTR the bill was about $130.

But apparently they got bought out, and the new owners won't allow walk-in business any more.
 
Well, the TR250 engine I have does not have cam bearing inserts. Same cast iron journals as the six.
 
Back
Top