TR5/TR250 TR250/6 Choke Cable Problem

[Got_All_4]

I put my TR250 on the road in 2006. Sine then I've been thru 3 choke cables. For some reason they start to freeze up over time and it takes a considerable amount of effort to pull. In most cases it wouldn't pull out all the way. Had to take the car to a body shop recently and I had to wrap a cord around the knob to pull the choke cable out. I've got to go to the shop tomorrow (friday) to try to fix it so he can move it around. I was going to try some penetrating fluid on the carb connections and try to force some into the cables. Of course the cables are plastic coated so that's a challenge.
The last time I replaced it I asked Scott at Team Triumph if he's heard of this problem from others and suggested trying a solid cable in place of the braided on. I don't think that last as long as the braided ones. Any ideas?

 

[Popeye]

I assume the problem is the cable, not the linkage at the carburetor?

I think the only answer is to grease (or spray lube) the cable periodically. Before installing a new cable, run the inner cable through a "pile of grease" (put some in your palm or on a piece of paper towel and run the cable through it). Spray lubes (chain and cable lubricant) are nice once the cable is in place, as you can spray from one end of the sheath until it comes out the other end (careful not to make a mess!).

3 cables in 18 years is not terrible - they should last longer. What do they look like when you pull the old one out? I am not familiar with the routing on a TR250... is there water getting to the cable, in turn washing away lubricant and causing rust? Does the cable run past a hot spot, accelerating rust?

 

[Got_All_4]

I don't spray down my engine compartment when I'm detailing the car. Plus the carbs were rebuilt by an x triumph mechanic so I would think the carb mechanism should be fine. Unless a freak storm comes up it's a fair weather car. However in 2023 coming back from 6-pack it rained all the way home.
If I have to get a new cable I'm going to do what a junkyard guy told me to do when I had to purchase a crank-up spare tire holder for my truck. He said to get some used oil and submerge it, then let it soak it for a couple of days. Lasted longer then the original one. But it's a pain to replace so I don't want to do that if I can get away with it.

 

[poolboy]

The carbs that were on the 250 and thru the 72 TR6 had fairly strong return springs on the choke's fast idle cams.
So in addition to the other springs, you're pull against the resistance of those return springs when you pull the choke cable knob.
See it it helps to depress the accelerator pedal as you pull the choke knob and make sure you are not pulling with the 'twist and lock' feature of the choke cable engaged.
Be sure to get your foot off the accelerator before you engage the starter, though.

 

[Got_All_4]

I should have mentioned that I have Good Parts triple carb set up. I also have 3 adjustable carbs that I think are from 1973 TR6s. Cables worked fine for a few years than start to tighten up. I do turn it counter clockwise to make sure I'm not in the lock feature. Maybe something go bad in the lock and it won't release.

 

[poolboy]

If you have 73 carbs, they wouldn't have had the return springs (although they may have been added) you should have the solid wire choke cable.
See this for your triples:

Cable Choke, Triple, TR250, TR6 | Good Parts

www.goodparts.com

If do not have the solid wire cable and if the choke knob stays out when you pull and release the knob, twist the knob until it is oriented straight up and down,,that should release the lock.
The solid wire cable's knob will stay where you set it without twisting...that is unless you have 3 fast idle cam return springs trying to pull the knob into the dash..they might succeed if the knob is easy to pull out.

 

[mctriumph]

The nature of these cables allows the oil to dry out and fine dirt to enter. Use only a lube such as
garage door spray, or a high grade synthetic (HHS from Wurth)
Mad dog

 

[Got_All_4]

Wow Mad dog. I'm a retired Wurth rep and I just loaded my car with Rost Off Extra and HHS Plus. I'm leaving at noon to go to the body shop. I'm thinking of taking the cable off and taping a funnel to it so I can spray the Rost Off Extra into it. My hope is that overfilling it, it will seep all the way down to the knob if I elevate it. Then I'll work it to loosen it, then do the same thing with the HHS. The HHS Plus has more rust inhibitors in it then the straight HHS-K.

 

[Gliderman8]

Last summer I replaced all the cables on my ‘63 Lambretta scooter. They were all the original cables. The front brake cable was slow to release. I did try lubricant on the inner cable but it didn’t help much.
What did help was the Teflon coated modern cables that I installed.
Don’t know if Teflon cables are available for our cars but it may be worth looking into.

 

[Got_All_4]

My little trick worked. As you can see in the pic I disconnected the 2 cables and taped on a funnel with a narrow hole in it. First I filled it with a penetrating fluid about an inch, then the HHS that Mad dog suggested and let it seep in for half hour. Loosened fairly quickly. Shot some in the front end too and the lock popped loose. Pit it back together and still a little tighter then I wanted. Then I moved the choke cable to the rear carb and that made all the difference.

 

[Deleted member 12064]

I use a motorcycle cable lubricator and lube. Works well in place for choke and bonnet cables and easy to do. Search Amazon. Just stuff a rag around the dash connection.