TR2/3/3A TR2 Floor Panel Replacement

[erstearns]

What method have others successfully used to replace the floor pans in a TR2 (obviously same for 3). My limited experience with seam welds is either drill out the spot welds or work your way in and split with air chisel with air turned down low.

Any suggestions?

 

[martx-5]

First thing to do is make sure you have the cockpit between the "A" & "B" pillars well braced, and only do one side at a time.

When I replaced the floors, I drilled all of the spot welds I could get to, but some cutting with whiz wheels, body saws, chisels and grinders were neccessary. I just used split point cobalt stub drills. The split points stay centered when you start them, and the short stub drills don't bend so easily. I tried the "spot weld" drills, but had better luck with the cobalt stubs.

 

[erstearns]

Thanks Art. Sort of knew the answer, all the above would be necessary. Brace from pillar to pillar is already there but will pay attention. Good thought on the cobalt stub bits, will try them first.

 

[Popeye]

In a recent issue of Classic Motorsports, they used a grinder to remove the spotwelds... removing a whole slice of metal instead of little spots.

On my 4A floors, I started with a drill, and recently "upgraded" to a HF spot-weld drill, with mixed success. For the driver's side I will try some of the grinding to see if it makes sense. I also just bought (but have not used) an HF air chisel; on sale for 11.99(!).

Good luck!!

 

[TR3driver]

I also just bought (but have not used) an HF air chisel; on sale for 11.99(!).

I would definitely practice on some scrap metal with the air chisel, before touching it to anything I valued!

What I found with mine was that it would either not cut at all, or suddenly starting going through metal like a hot knife through butter. Hard to control.

 

[Popeye]

I also just bought (but have not used) an HF air chisel; on sale for 11.99(!).

I would definitely practice on some scrap metal with the air chisel, before touching it to anything I valued!

What I found with mine was that it would either not cut at all, or suddenly starting going through metal like a hot knife through butter. Hard to control.

Thank you for the advice!! (Before I air-chisel my car in half...)

 

[TR6BILL]

On my TR6, the perimeter was solid so all I needed to do was cut out the floor to the edge and lap-weld the new Heritage floors in place. About a 1/2" overlap and good welds.

 

[Popeye]

On my TR6, the perimeter was solid so all I needed to do ...

Showoff!!

 

[erstearns]

Grabbing what was handy on the workbench, a half inch wood chisel to be exact, worked pretty well. Easily pried or beat into the area between spot welds and cut thru the welds with a few persuasive beats from a 2 lb short handls sledge.

A Kobalt split point worked well for the welds that held out against the wood chisel.

Funny the level of satisfaction upon removing a rusted, rotten floor board. Curiously, the better half was not as excited to see another project launched (her view that it was much more cost effective to let it sit in the corner and in various assorted piles of parts).