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TR6 TR-6 fuel pump

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bigbadbluetr6

bigbadbluetr6

Jedi Trainee
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I know that I've shared problems with my car having problems starting. I've tried a new fuel pump out of one of the big 3 vendors. I have went through 2 pumps from Vendor A(the pumps leak where the dome connects to the body, the rubber gasket in there is to small). Vendor B has a picture of the same one I bought from Vendor A. Vendor C is out of pumps and rebuild kits. So what do I do? Buy a repair kit from Vendor A to repair my original pump and hope it doesn't have the same problems as the complete unit? Or should I be thinking about switching to an electrical pump? If that is a route which is the best electric pump?
 
My preference would be for rebuilding the original. The kit I got from TRF fit and worked perfectly, but of course that was for a TR3 and the TR6 kit is different.

For an electric pump, I like the little square Facet pumps. They come in a variety of pressures though, so be sure to get one that matches what your carbs want. I think that is model 40163, maybe someone else knows for sure. Aircraft Spruce is the cheapest source of new ones that I know of (excluding some clones that look identical but aren't as well made)
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

However, they seem very reliable, so I bought my last one on flea-bay for $20.

There is a Ford fuel filter that screws into the inlet and has a hose barb on the other side. Probably a good idea; but the bare pump seems very tolerant of crud in the fuel, so maybe not required.

Probably the biggest downside of the Facet is that they are kind of noisy. If you just bolt them to flat sheet metal, the metal amplifies the noise and makes it annoying. For the one in my Stag, I developed a double rubber mount, with rubber between the pump and a bracket, then more rubber between the bracket and the original fuel pump bracket. You can still hear the pump if you listen closely with the engine off, but the exhaust burble covers it up nicely.
 
I put the Facet 40104 in my TR6 about two years ago; I don't see why the 40163 wouldn't work as Randall points out. It is noisy but I also used some rubber between the pump base and the frame.
One more thing... I also used a fuel pump relay from an '85 Rabbit; it senses the rotation of the distributor and energizes the fuel pump. If the distributor is not turning, there is no +12v to the pump. It's a safety feature in case of an accident. I also need to install an inertia switch which is on my "to do" list.

Edit..... here's a pic of the fuel pump relay I used

Electric fuel pump 004.jpg
 
Aloha Eric,

I recently started my TR6 to turn it around after sitting for several months. It had the same leak where the metal dome seats in the top of the pump. I pinched the inlet line off and removed the dome - the rubber gasket was distorted and too stiff to effect a seal. I used the dome as a template to carefully cut a new gasket, which worked great. I used some thick cork sheet that I got from a FLAPS a few projects ago. Maybe thats all you need.

Jeff
74.5 TR6
 
British Parts Northwest lists fuel pumps and pump rebuild kits in stock for very reasonable prices: https://www.bpnorthwest.com/triumph/tr250-tr6/fuel-system.html

I rebuilt my TR250 pump and it has been going for four or five years now no problem. I don't remember where I got the rebuild kit. but the rebuild was a fairly straightforward process, plus you can do most of the work on a table or workbench, not upside down under the car or dash, always a bonus. P.S. if the only issue is the leak at the top I would go the route of making a new gasket as suggested by Jeff above
 
If TRF has their rebuild kits in stock, it's a good purchase. I can vouch for their quality....cured the GT6's hard starting...still going strong...four driving seasons later.
 
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